Mumbai is a city that loves to eat. Eateries here are not just places you go to feed your hunger, but more a celebration of cultures and traditions by those who cook and those who savour it.
Bombay (as it was then known) is the place of my childhood and where I spent much of my teenage years mastering the art of squeezing into packed local trains and drinking tea at every hour of the day and night (yes, you can have a cuppa at 2am). But more importantly, it is the city that introduced me to unimaginable flavours where sweet and sour met spicy and tangy - all in a mouthful.
Even now, almost two decades later, I make a list of places I want to eat at during my annual trips there. Such is its culinary draw.
At every nook and cranny of this great metropolis is a gastronomic journey waiting to happen - be it on a street stall, a restaurant or one of its several food trucks. From the roadside favourite Vada Pav (potato ball served in a bun) to Parsi (Zoroastrian refugees from Persia) meat delicacies, here is how to explore Mumbai’s diversity through food.
Bun Maska and beyond
Persian-style cafes, also known as Irani cafes, have been a part of Mumbai heritage since the 19th Century. Although these bakeries are diminishing in numbers, their timeless beauty and old-school charm attract hedonists craving bun maska chai - a bun plastered with butter served with tea.
Historic gems: Kayani & Co in Marine Lines is perhaps the most sought-after of them all, famous for breakfast staples like egg omelette and chicken rolls. Located in the up-market Kala Ghoda area, Yazdani Bakery has been serving the best plum cakes, puddings and khaari (crisp baked biscuit) since 1953.
Hidden gem: Gloria Cafe, Byculla - this may not be the most recommended or written about cafes, but the food here deserves a shout out. Try their Kheema Pav (minced meat with bread), Paya Soup, Paya Curry and Daal Roti. Paya means trotters (or hoof of a cow, goat, buffalo or sheep). When it comes to Parsi delicacies, Salli Boti, a mutton curry topped with crispy fried potatoes, is a must-try.
The Great Indian Thali
Maharashtra, the state in which Mumbai resides, consists of several districts and dialects, each with its unique take on food - even if the ingredients are identical. The same is true for every state in India.
The best way to taste multiple dishes at once is to go to a thali restaurant. A typical thali, meaning plate in Hindi, consists of 4-6 smaller bowls in which you get served a variety of vegetables, lentils, curd, pickle, rice or roti and sweet to balance the meal. There is no menu at these all-you-can-eat-style restaurants, so you are going in blind.
Sion Lunch Home and Jai Hind specialise in seafood thalis made using native spices and age-old methods. Whilst at Jai Hind, try the stuffed Bombay duck with baby shrimps. Gughan Supreme South Indian in Marine Lines has mastered authentic and flavorful Tamil meals.
Historic gem: Chaitanya Authentic Malvani Cuisine, Dadar - opened in Mumbai in 2010, Chaitanya has established itself as one to beat when it comes to thalis. Their eight-page menu includes a mind-boggling selection, three for vegetarians and twenty if you like seafood and meat. Prawn thali here costs Rs580 (under £6) and consists of several variations of prawns: fry, salad, rice, vegetables with prawns and more.
Kebab O’Clock
Inspired by 17th century Greek and Turkish culture, these juicy, charcoal-cooked meat skewers are a much loved Indian delicacy. You may have heard of Sheesh, but have you heard of Boti (marinated lamb in yoghurt) or Tangdi (chicken drumsticks)? Take the opportunity to explore the variety across some of these diners.
Small and understated, Ayub’s in south Mumbai is known for its chicken kathi and mutton bhuna roll. Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar in Grant Road opens from 11 in the morning to 3 at night and is a hotspot for students and revellers heading home after a night out - try their mince stuffed kebabs and biryanis.
Hidden gem: Nice Fast Food Corner, Santacruz - this no-fuss place may not look the part from the outside but serves a mean chicken tikka, chicken baida roti, mutton tikka and mutton roll. Dip your kebabs in the spicy green chutney and top it with finely sliced onions rings.
Street Food
Your trip to Mumbai is incomplete if you do not try something at a thela (food served on a cart). Often inexpensive, these stalls help feed millions in a city where the socio-economic disparity is clear to see. Do not judge its quality by the price; some of Mumbai’s best restaurants started from a humble thela. Be warned: they come with a health warning. Choose wisely and go where the crowds are.
The most iconic street food is Vada Pav, a deep-fried potato dumpling placed inside a bun accompanied with one or more chutneys. Aaram outside CST station and Graduate outside Byculla East station are the best places to try on-the-go snacks.
Another firm favourite is Bombay Sandwich, made by stuffing bread with flavoured sliced potato, onion, tomato, sometimes cheese and a dollop of coriander chutney. There are several variations to this - all delectable.
One finger-lickingly good thela food is bhelpuri (rice puffs tossed in tangy, spicy, sour sauce). This is best enjoyed on the shores of Juhu or Girgaon Chowpatty.
Historic gem: Sardar Pav Bhaji, Tardeo - writing about street food without mentioning pav bhaji would be a sin. Sardar Ahmed started this centre 55 years back to feed tired mill workers. Today he attracts hundreds of food lovers waiting to dive into the piping hot bhaji (mixed vegetable filled with spices) coming straight out of his big flat pan. Just the aroma will make your mouth water with temptation.
Kuch Meetha Ho Jaye (Let’s have something sweet)
No meal in India ends without a dessert, even if it is just a piece of jaggery. A national favourite is gulab jamun - fried dough ball made from milk solids and semolina, soaked in aromatic spiced syrup topped with saffron. This dessert is not for the calorie-conscious, and once you succumb to the temptation, you will not stop. Punjabi Moti Halwai in the Fort area makes melt-in-the-mouth gulab jamuns.
For Middle Eastern-inspired treats, especially baklava, look no further than Kunafa in Mumbai (Sufy’s Kanafeh Point).
Hidden gem: Crystal, Girgaon Chowpatty - most countries have a variation of rice pudding, in Mumbai it’s called kheer. Made by boiling milk and adding sugar and rice, this delicately-flavoured dessert is synonymous with weddings and festivals and can be eaten warm or chilled, depending on your preference. As well as kheer, Crystal also specialises in fruit cream.
Getting there
Start your culinary journey in the air with Virgin Atlantic Upper Class. Their three-course à la carte meals comprise of delicious vegan, vegetarian and meat options carefully curated to give the ultimate luxury experience. Pair your meal with the finest wines or have a go at some house cocktails designed by expert mixologists. If you get peckish during the long eight-hour flight, there are snacks at hand too. Virgin Atlantic fly direct to Mumbai from London Heathrow. virginatlantic.com
