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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Lewis Bassett

Fish-finger bhorta, anyone? Let’s make a new England, one recipe at a time

Staff at M Manze pie and mash shop, Tower Bridge, London.
Staff at M Manze pie and mash shop, Tower Bridge, London. Photograph: Frank Baron/The Guardian

What comes to mind when you think of English food? Perhaps it’s eccles cake and yorkshire pudding. Hand-raised pies with thick brown crusts and a little translucent jelly under the lid. Maybe it’s baked apples with cinnamon and custard, crumpets with butter, smoked kippers or fish and chips washed down with tea.

But we have to be honest. While some of us will think of English food in terms of affection and nostalgia, most of the world will turn up their noses in disgust. In the rest of Europe, English food is widely seen as unpalatable.

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