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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Ped Millichamp

Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi review: unabashed opulence in the UAE

Where?

Originally built as a palace to host dignitaries and diplomats and later turned into a 390 room luxury hotel, the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental proudly stands on the shores of the Persian Gulf overlooking its own 1.3km private white sand beach in the UAE’s capital Abu Dhabi.

A short cab ride to the city with its array of high fashion stores and fine dining restaurants or the craziness of Dubai, this hotel is well positioned to offer the best of both worlds... the serene tranquility and opulence of one of the world’s most luxurious hotels or easy access to the cultural hotspots of the UAE.

If Abu Dhabi wasn’t on your globetrotting list, it should be now. Flights from London take around the same time as it takes to get to New York and with a state-of-the-art airport awaiting your arrival, you can experience a completely different culture to our Western holiday destinations. The locals are friendly and welcoming and service is premium.

Style

Surrounded by palm trees, the hotel is a considered blend of Islamic architecture combining geometry, proportion and hierarchy with modern construction and design. Shades of Arabian Desert sand make up the hotel’s exterior hue with a large central dome proudly adorning the roof and surrounded by smaller domes across the complex. Inside the labyrinth of marbled rooms – each one decorated to the highest spec (the hotel even has its own gold leaf specialist) – you’ll find crystal chandeliers, marble columns and hundreds of water fountains. With leisurely pools bookending the hotel, lush gardens and the glistening Gulf as a backdrop it really is the ultimate idyllic setting.

Food & drink

Where to start! The hotel boasts 11 restaurants (several of which have Michelin star status). All fine-dining experiences. With tables inside the air-conditioned rooms, you can take a breather from the outside heat (its was 40 degrees when we visited) although the cooler UAE months facilitate al fresco dining. We travelled around the world with each meal, from the contemporary classic Indian fine dining at Martabaan (with renowned chef Hemant Oberoi taking an innovative approach to Indian cuisine) sampling their Royal Set Menu. It included succulent prawns marinated in raw mango and yoghurt and grilled in their tandoor and perhaps the most tender lamb biryani I’ve had the pleasure of devouring. It was all finished off by the rather fun Jalebi dessert (sweet and crispy spiralled batter).

Another hit was the Lebanese Terrace where we enjoyed a mixed grill with hot and cold mezze side dishes that expertly blended the traditions and flavours and were sprinkled with chef Gilber Sakr’s love for his homeland. If you like your steak as much as I do, make sure you head to Broadway – the modern American brasserie and bar offers a more relaxed atmosphere. Sample the wagyu ribeye with confit garlic (triple cooked chips on the side, obvs). Steaks are easy to cook incorrectly and difficult to get just right but their head chef takes great delight in cooking it to your specific requirements. Wash it down with one of the bar’s cocktails – again, perfectly prepared by their expert mixologists. The expansive menu also offers more classic dishes such as The Broadway Burger, moules frites or (my favourite) sticky toffee pudding, but don’t expect anything other than an elevated tasting experience.

Fancy a Michelin-star Italian for dinner? Talea (by renowned chef Antonio Guida) offers up distinctive interpretations of classic Italian dishes in the warm embrace of Italian hospitality. The menu highlight for me was the seabass, risoni with a fresh tomato and basil sauce whilst my son tucked in to the pizza al nero – with its black charcoal dough with burrata and Iberico beef ham topping.

(Mandarin Oriental)

Afternoon tea at Episodes, located in the heart of the hotel, is a dining destination for the locals. Expect exceptional fine teas from around the world paired with the most incredible mini sweet and savoury artisanal creations. So beautifully presented you almost don’t want to eat them (although I did manage to).

We saved our favourite until last – Hakkasan with its the well-deserved Michelin-star. Expect elevated Cantonese cuisine. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting the London flagship restaurant, you’ll know about its luxe décor; moodily-lit carved wooden screens and latticing combining to create an incredible environment as you sample the menu and soak in the live DJ set. Their signature peking duck pancakes dish is a must. If, like me, you enjoy a cocktail, then try the smoked negroni. You’ll thank me later.

Across all the restaurants, from breakfast through to lunch and dinner, service is as exceptional as it is warm and knowledgeable. I took great comfort in the waiters’ knowledge of the dishes and taking in our requests. It’s also satisfying to learn that the hotel sources its produce as locally and sustainably as possible (the hotel even has its own beehive and allotment). The hotel has over 1100 members of staff so you will be well looked after.

This hotel is well positioned to offer the serene tranquility and opulence of one of the world’s most luxurious hotels or easy access to the cultural hotspots of the UAE

PED MILLICHAMP

Facilities

We especially enjoyed the pristine white sand beach and its sunbeds, as well as the camel ride from the Bedouin tent along the private stretch of beach. The hotel has two pools. One with a pool side bar and in-water hammocks which felt like we were floating on water. The other pool is aimed at kids with its water slide and slow moving rapids (I discovered my inner child as I reclined in a rubber ring floating under the palm trees!).

Looking to deeply relax into a zen state of mind? Then the luxurious spa is a must. I opted of the traditional Oriental Qi massage which was 90-minutes of pure serenity. The on-site barbers offers a bespoke grooming service and the head barber will rejoice in telling you about the likes of Pep Guardiola and Erling Haaland who have all entrusted his skills as you recline into his world of pampering.

(Mandarin Oriental)

Taking the children but need some time out? Book them into the new purpose-built and state-of-the-art Kids Palace where they can safely enjoy an array of activities from art sessions to flying on a bird simulator.

For us though, the water sports were the main attraction and perhaps the most invigorating activity of the stay. We opted for the on-water Bond-esque speed ‘car’ and the wake-boarding – all guided by an expert. More serene paddle-boarding and kayaking options are especially exhilarating as the sun sets.

Take part in beach volleyball, golf, padel or horse riding. Head to their on-site gyms or take a yoga class, or if you’re feeling more energetic, take on one of the cycle trails.

(Mandarin Oriental)

Extracurricular

Abu Dhabi city and Dubai are around 30 minutes taxi ride away if you want to further explore but our highlight was visiting the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Centre that is about 10 miles (less than a tenner in a taxi). Free to enter (ensure you observe the local traditions and cover up), it’s the largest and most iconic national cultural landmark in Abu Dhabi. If you visit one destination, it’s this. Expect white marble and Insta-friendly photo opps.

(Ped Millichamp/ES)

Which room?

We opted for the elegant Sea View Suite with its own balcony and views of the Persian Gulf and the pristine beach. The suite itself is comprised of an en suite marble bathroom with hot tub, elegant living room and access to the hotels’ EP Club. Our balcony soon became our haven as we enjoyed the sun rising over the beach with a coffee in the morning and it setting each night. Stunning.

There are 390 rooms and suites in total so depending on your budget and preference you can opt for either a sea view, garden view or city view. So take your pick. Every room is the epitome of luxury and is furnished with the highest level of comfort and décor.

The EP Club is the hotel’s private offering giving you access to a champagne breakfast, bespoke meals throughout the day or cocktails at night. It also gains you access to its own section of the private beach to kick back and relax on one of the large daybeds, sun loungers or opulent cabanas. A 24-hour butler and concierge service, private meeting rooms and other priority bookings are also part of the EP Club. Definitely worth considering if you’re keen to enjoy a more private stay away from the other guests.

The dedicated Vegan rooms are a great option that supports a vegan lifestyle with sustainable bedding, plant-based bathroom amenities and furniture that avoids animal-based materials.

(Mandarin Oriental)

Best for...

We came across an eclectic mix of guests. From families to honeymooners and couples, business groups and solo travellers — several of which had visited before. For us, this was a father and son bonding trip and one that’ll stay with us forever.

(Ped Millichamp / ES)

Details

Club rooms start from £465 per night with direct flights from London available from Etihad Airways. Book here.

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