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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Douglas Blyde

Douglas Blyde on why your next wine should be volcanic

There is something thrilling about a volcanic wine. These aren’t the polite, well-mannered offspring of sun-dappled hills and soft, loamy soils. These are the feral progeny of fire and brimstone, clinging to existence on crusted lava fields, ash-smeared slopes, and barren ridges forged in the planet’s molten core. If reified, a volcanic wine would stomp into the room, ash still dusting its lapels, and dare you to look away.

To drink a volcanic wine is to taste the Earth’s fury — scars left by eruptions which blackened skies, silenced civilisations, and rearranged continents. These are wines born of catastrophe, thriving in landscapes so inhospitable they look like nature’s way of saying: “not here, not now, not ever.” And yet, here they are — sinewy vines, clinging to impossible terrain, producing wines which pulse with tension and energy.

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