Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Most of what is precious cannot be paid for: love cannot be manufactured, faked lust doesn’t taste the same. Tiella has what every restaurateur craves but no one can commission: atmosphere. It is there in spades. In this new trattoria, once upon a time a Truman boozer, the air moves with laughter, chatter, romance. Groups huddle together, couples eat hand in hand. At every table, more wine is called for. This is not something you can invent or beg a designer to come up with: it happens by itself when everything is just so. Tiella has the intangible it.
