Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
The truth of the past and the stories told of it often differ. Sir Terence Conran is regularly credited with having revolutionised a dreary London restaurant scene into something so glitzy it seemed as if every waitress was a showgirl and the coke was cut with glitter. And while true, as a story of London becoming a decent place to dine, it does elbow out all the others who held up their end — Rowley Leigh, Alastair Little, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers. Marco. The lesser-spotted Worrall Thompson.
