Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
A friend told me this column has recently resembled extracts from the diary of Oscar the Grouch, which I think is a little off the mark. Oscar lives in a bin, after all: he probably would have lapped up all the rubbish I’ve put up with lately. Still, point taken. To offset all the bah-humbugging, then, here is a recommendation: Cinder, in St John’s Wood, is terrific.
