Review at a glance: ★★★★★
Know your onions? Let’s see. Question one: what makes a perfect restaurant? Is it the food or the service? How about atmosphere? What is that, exactly — show your workings? Perhaps a perfect restaurant owes something to its decor, or maybe it’s all down to trickery with the lighting. Is greatness affected by price, location, how quickly martinis arrive? Some people I know — deviant restaurateurs mostly — think the hotness of the staff has something to do with it. Others insist it’s about the make-up of the crowd. Figuratively, I mean. But, well…
