Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
London is a city of little villages? Territories seems more on the mark. Folklore says you once could divvy up the streets by the families that ran them — the Krays, Richardsons, Adams. But today’s gangsters have gone to ground and so now the most visible kingdoms are ruled by restaurateurs. There’s Chris D’Sylva in Notting Hill, Samyukta Nair in Mayfair, Richard Caring on Berkeley Square. And then there’s Omar Shah, who seems to have quietly picked up the rights to half of Kentish Town Road. Not the glamour leagues, then, but an empire’s an empire.
