Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Plans go awry; that’s one of their functions. Today’s column, for instance, meant to be about Namaiki in Soho, toward which good sorts kept nudging me on the grounds of it being London’s best value sushi. An excellent eight-course omakase lunch for £40? Writes itself, no? Trouble is, that lunch — miso soup, six pieces of nigiri, a torotaku handroll and some pud — is now £58. No longer the steal it seemed.
