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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

David Ellis, On the Sauce at the Green Bar: It can turn a night feral, but absinthe is finally back in fashion

There have always been voguish ways to get wrecked, though Yves Saint Laurent’s rule holds firm: fashion fades, style is eternal (and the martini is the LBD of drinks). So what to make of absinthe? Once adored by poets and painters, the last time it was hot, so was eating opium and repealing corn laws.

It is a drink with much the same reputation as dark alleyways; instinct intuits this is not the right path to take. Sometimes twice the strength of vodka, it can turn a night feral. Shoes may go missing — or worse: it’s said Van Gogh lost his ear to it. Google tells me the question most people have about absinthe is whether it’s legal or not.

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