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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Lucy Worsley

Dancing horses and a dodgy Venus: why Derbyshire’s Bolsover Castle is my wonder of the world

Bolsover Castle at sunset, Derbyshire, England.
Bolsover Castle at sunset. Photograph: Christopher Drabble/Alamy

Bolsover Castle, topped with turrets, sits at the crest of a hill with the best view in Derbyshire. You could be forgiven for thinking it must be the home of a medieval knight, if not a wizard. But really it’s a gothic, chivalric, romantic recreation of a medieval castle, constructed by a 17th-century aristocrat. He was so pleased with his “new castle” that he took it for his title, becoming Duke of Newcastle.

The castle seems pretty wondrous to me, not least because it determined my choice of career. As a teenager, I read about it in a book describing a treasure hunt undertaken in the 1960s by the architectural historian Mark Girouard. He was looking for traces of the lost houses designed by the Smythsons, a talented family of master masons and designers in Elizabethan England. Their work at Bolsover formed the climax of his quest, and through several lucky breaks I ended up working there myself in my first proper job as assistant inspector of ancient monuments for English Heritage.

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