Sometimes the only way to truly relax is to abandon London for a few rejuvenating days in the countryside. And rather than spend hours getting there why not make a break for Coworth Park, a divine foodie getaway just 40 minutes from London.
The only hotel in the UK with polo fields (you might spot a few polo-loving royals in the summer — it was a favourite of Harry and Meghan’s before they relocated Stateside), its signature restaurant Woven by Adam Smith also has a Michelin star and worth the journey down the M4 alone.
The hotel is unique in that while it is idyllic for families, it is also completely suitable for adults looking for a peaceful escape, probably because the estate is so spacious.
Coworth Village would be more appropriate to describe the layout and feel, since the accommodation is made up of 35 quaint cottages, barns and outbuildings, all grouped around the main stately building. Activities are endless — from disc golf to tennis to croquet to bicycling around the estate – but it is also a great place just to take in the gorgeous views and read the Sunday papers by a fire. My preferred weekend hobby.
Steeped in history, Coworth House was built for William Shepheard a prosperous East India company merchant, in 1776. In the 1800s royals such as the Princess and Prince of Wales and Queen Alexandra stayed there when they visited nearby races at Ascot. By the 1980s it was the country pile of Galen Weston, owner of Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason, who built the house’s first polo field. It opened as a lavish Dorchester collection hotel in 2010.
One of the main attractions is the Michelin star restaurant, Woven by chef Adam Smith, who was appointed executive chef at Restaurant Coworth Park in 2016, joining from his role as head chef at The Devonshire Arms. Formerly, Smith worked under chef John Williams at The Ritz, rising from second commis to executive sous chef. In 2012 he was awarded Observer Food Monthly Young Chef of the Year and won the Roux Scholarship, with Michel Roux senior calling him ‘one to watch’.
At Woven, Smith weaves stories from his childhood with fine organic sustainable produce sourced locally. The restaurant showcases Britain’s finest produce, from fresh seafood to locally foraged mushrooms, hand-picked herbs and native flowers. Each dish on the seasonally changing menus tells a story, and all these stories come together to create an extraordinary dining experience.
The meal begins with five cleverly created ‘snacks’, from caviar in pastry to lollipop chicken skewers in a crispy deliciously cloying sweet batter to spring lamb with mint wrapped in cucumber, goats cheese with dill basil and kohlrabi, and for the brave eaters, eel in basil cream soup followed by a palate cleanser of avocado cream mint cream balls. Then, for the piece de la resistance, the most heavenly bread basket imaginable with a pillow-soft cardoman brioche with honey made from bees on the estate, dreamy cheese croissants, Armenian flatbread with flaxseeds and sourdough, all with different interesting creative dips.
Next up for me (guests can choose from three to four options for every course), stuffed morels, Cornish Turbot with truffles and baby leeks then a clever edit of cheeses handpicked from the seriously impressive cheese room.
Service is attentive informative and discreet – and it is charming how enthusiastic all the staff at the hotel are about the restaurant (be prepared to tell everyone you meet which was your favourite dish!).
Other than Woven, a main attraction is the spa with a well-equipped gym, heavenly relaxation areas and a pool which plays underwater music. Do have a massage with star masseur Shevon. She’ll pummel you with their signature Ishga products until those stresses and strains from your life in the city are but a distant memory.
