Chloé blended Nineties grunge references with the house’s signature bohemian femininity for its autumn/winter 2026 show in Paris, as creative director Chemena Kamali continued to shape her strong yet romantic vision for the French maison.
Models, including Italian model and partner of Leonardo DiCaprio Vittoria Ceretti, emerged through a haze of smoke before stepping onto the runway, creating an ethereal atmosphere, echoing the brand’s long-standing reputation for fluid silhouettes and dreamy design.
Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé has historically championed a softer, freer approach to womenswear. Aghion was among the first designers to embrace luxury prêt-à-porter – clothing that felt elegant yet easy to wear – and that philosophy remains central to the house today.
Kamali’s autumn/winter 2026 collection reflected that heritage while introducing subtle Nineties motifs – a trend that has cropped up throughout collection this season including Gucci and Tom Ford – through checked fabrics, darker tones and heavier silhouettes.
Long, layered skirts dominated the runway, many constructed with cascading ruffles. One look featured a dramatic plaid gown layered with tiers of ruffles and lace layered under a leather utility jacket – a romantic silhouette infused with the rebellious spirit of Nineties grunge.
Plaid appeared again in softer pink tones, where a loose, flowing dress drifted across the runway in airy layers.
The relaxed cut and gathered ruffles reinforced the brand’s bohemian DNA, while the check pattern created more of an edge.
Elsewhere, an emerald green plaid dress captured the essence of Chloé’s romantic identity. Featuring an off-the-shoulder design, the dress had smocked detailing and voluminous sleeves, while tiered ruffles built volume throughout the skirt.
Outerwear played a key role throughout the collection, with a firm emphasis on capes and ponchos, highlighting the house’s commitment to ease of movement.
One model appeared wrapped in a long, cape-like beige coat layered over a delicate dress, creating a cocooning silhouette that contrasted with the more flowing garments beneath.
Kamali also introduced more structured tailoring into the mix. Broad-shouldered blazers – a huge trend this season – were paired with flowing skirts and dresses, balancing the collection’s romantic softness with sharper lines.
When it came to footwear, over-the-knee leather boots with interior shearling evoked a subtle equestrian influence, a shape and style also seen at Stella McCartney’s show.
Platform clogs were also, of course, prevalent, offering a nostalgic reference to the Seventies era when Karl Lagerfeld helped shape the house’s influential “Soft Look”.
Pink prevailed throughout the show, further reinforcing the shade’s growing prominence across autumn/winter 2026 runways.
These softer hues were balanced with deeper tones including rich reds and royal purple to give the collection a sense of grunge.
By weaving Nineties grunge into the house’s signature softness, Kamali presented a collection that felt both nostalgic and contemporary, which reaffirmed Chloé’s place as one of fashion’s most enduring champions of feminine freedom.
Among those seated front row were singer Olivia Rodrigo, actress Aimee Lou Wood, actress Brooke Shields, television host Oprah Winfrey and musicians Mabel and Neneh Cherry.
Olivia Rodrigo, 23, arrived in a romantic Chloé look featuring a sheer ruffled camisole dress paired with the house’s signature Paddington bag.
Aimee Lou Wood, 32, channelled the show’s more grungy aesthetic, opting for a black leather coat and matching shoulder bag.
Brooke Shields chose a polished Chloé ensemble, stepping out in a balloon-sleeved khaki coat over a ruched skirt that echoed the house’s relaxed elegance.
Mabel, 30, embraced the house’s bohemian codes in a tan leather bomber jacket, while Neneh Cherry, 61, opted for a relaxed tailored look, wearing a long trench coat and aviator sunglasses.
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