Stepping into Lolo, Spanish chef José Pizarro’s newest restaurant in London, feels like entering a slice of his hometown in Extremadura: think rustic finishes, terracotta tiles, and a shareable all-day Iberian menu. But while the western Spanish charm is undeniable, Lolo dodges the trap of feeling overly thematic. Instead, its intimate walls surprise with a (tasteful) collection of contemporary art – where else could you enjoy tortilla beneath a Tracey Emin self-portrait? Bear in mind the strictly no-food White Cube Bermondsey gallery lies metres away.
Lolo nails this balance: bold yet approachable, understated yet irresistibly romantic. As the ‘youngest sibling’ to Pizarro’s Bermondsey Street staples – the lively José tapas bar and relaxed Pizarro restaurant – it finds its own niche. By day, it’s a breezy, sunlit café; by night, an intimate, wine-fuelled retreat.
The Mood: playful heritage
British interior design studio Pattern Haus led the restaurant’s design. ‘We wanted to reflect José’s passion for bringing people together through food, celebrating his heritage and the neighbourhood’s industrial history,’ says designer Karen Taylor. At its heart is a bar with counter seating, blending rustic oak and rattan textures inspired by Pizarro’s upbringing, with a marble counter with bold red veining that echoes Bermondsey Street’s industrial roots.
Each designated seating area is encircled by honey-toned end-grain timber flooring that mimics a rustic chopping board, while natural terracotta tiles line circulation spaces, harmonising with soft lime-washed walls and ceilings. Custom linen shades and elegant wall lights further add warmth, accentuating art such as a watercolour by late local artist Norman Ackroyd, photographs by Pizarro’s partner, Peter Meades, and a free-blown glass triptych by Peter Layton.
The Food: tasty Spanish favourites, the José Pizarro way
‘The menu features dishes I love to cook and eat at home,’ says Pizarro, singling out the Lolo de ternera as his favourite – a beef sandwich with green peppers and Ermesenda cheese. Lolo’s menu offers a range of small plates (best shared) that balance creative presentation with bold flavours. Think of inventive vegetarian dishes alongside juicy meat and seafood options.
Eggs take centre stage, starring in fluffy lazy omelettes, baked dishes, and even devilled creations. Starters see an artisanal touch, such as fresh curd cheese with tomatoes and preserved lemon; and courgette carpaccio with pine nuts and slow-roasted tomatoes. Mains embrace Spanish family traditions, from tender ‘Rockfish’ cuttlefish with black squid ink rice to Presa Ibérica in escabeche with confit peppers. For a taste of the sea, an artisanal selection of briny tins includes Chipirones in ink and Catalina Cantabrian anchovies. Pair these with your choice of Spanish beers, dulcet cocktails, or sparkling, red, and white wines.
Lolo is located at 102 Bermondsey St, London SE1 3UB, josepizarro.com
