Yes, we French people do value taste in cheeses (The French are hitting their protein goals – thanks to a cheese that looks like ectoplasm, 18 May). There is a myriad of flavours in our dairy industry, from extreme farmhouse dungy-funk to sterilised stinky plastic. But most of our industrial cheeses sit firmly in the vicinity of savoury hardened fat.
So it’s no surprise that cancoillotte is making a comeback! In Paris in my late 20s, every single night out (or in) started with an apéro dînatoire (drinks and snacks). And cancoillotte was a staple. Why? Because if you microwavay it for 30 seconds, you get a great cheese dip for chips, bread, veggies, spoons. Cheap, tasty enough and quick. And now it’s deemed healthy? I rest my case.
Mel Garcon
Sazeray, France
