I’ve tried almost all the acne-fighting ingredients and prescriptions over the past two decades. I’ve used the benzoyl peroxide and sulfur face washes. I’ve tried salicylic acid toners and glycolic acid peels. I’ve even spent years on Spironolactone and just about every prescription medication—from Aczone to Clindamycin—you can imagine. While treating acne will always require some personalization and, normally, the guidance of a fabulous board-certified dermatologist, there are two over-the-counter ingredients that can help set you up for the clearest skin. Enter: azelaic acid, an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial agent, and retinol, a vitamin A derivative that can help speed up cell turnover, a.k.a. one of the buzziest skincare combinations taking over your TikTok FYP.
“They complement each other because they address different aspects of acne-prone skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Lian Mack, MD. “Retinol keeps pores from becoming clogged and promotes skin renewal, while azelaic acid reduces inflammation and acne-causing bacterial activity, while also addressing pigmentation.” When you use both together, you’re able to target not just acne but clogged pores, inflammation, redness, and texture. Basically, it is a win all around.