If you want to know whether summer has properly arrived, don’t bother looking at the weather forecast. Look at what’s on the shelves.
Suddenly, there are piles of Jersey Royals everywhere. Asparagus is still hanging on. Broad beans and peas are elbowing their way into every pasta dish going. Strawberries have stopped tasting vaguely of disappointment and started tasting like strawberries. Even gooseberries, that most unfairly neglected of British fruits, are having their annual moment in the sun.