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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Justin McCurry in Osaka

‘Bread is much easier’: how Japan fell out of love with rice

Restaurants in central Osaka. Japanese rice consumption has been in decline since the 1960s.
Restaurants in central Osaka. Japanese rice consumption has been in decline since the 1960s. Photograph: Anadolu Agency/Getty Images

The Dojima branch of Yoshinoya in Osaka is doing a roaring lunchtime trade. As soon as one diner vacates their counter seat, another takes their place, while staff take just seconds to assemble the next order of the restaurant’s trademark dish: gyūdon.

The Observer has joined the rush, ordering a set lunch of seasoned beef and onion on rice, and side dishes of pickled cabbage and miso soup – all for a extremely affordable ¥632 (£3.46).

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