Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common cosmetic skin concerns in the UK and globally.
Known as age spots, sun spots, dark spots or melasma, it is most generally caused by sun exposure as a result of the skin producing more melanin aka the pigment that is responsible skin’s colouring. There are different types, are generally harmless and present as darker or inflammed patches on the face, hands and on the body. It is challenging to remove and, much like all anti-ageing skincare, prevention is better than treatment.
Yet, all is not lost. Innovation in the skincare sphere has resulted in a seemingly endless selection of lotions and potions designed specifically to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation - and the best of the lot are in serum form. These lightweight formulations are created to be used after cleansing and toning and are to be followed by the seal of moisturiser. But before we get onto that, we consulted Nathan Moore, Soho Skin Brand Expert to deep dive into the world of hyperpigmentation.
What are the causes of hyperpigmentation?
Moore explains, “Hyperpigmentation has several causes, including sun exposure, skin injury and inflammation, hormonal changes, disorders and illnesses, and certain medications and treatments”.
What are the different types of hyperpigmentation?
“The most common types of hyperpigmentation are age spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)”, he reveals. “Post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) is another common skin concern that is often confused with PIH, though the two are distinct skin conditions; PIE tends to present as pink, red, or purple marks on the skin and is more common in lighter skin tones, whereas PIH presents as brown, grey, or dark marks on the skin and is more common in deeper skin tones”.
How do you counteract hyperpigmentation?
Moore says, “It is important to first understand the type and cause of your hyperpigmentation before determining a treatment strategy. Generally speaking, though, the best offense is a good defense – adhering to a gentle, consistent routine that focuses on minimising inflammation will go a long way in helping to prevent hyperpigmentation and/or mitigating its severity. And of course, daily SPF is a must!”
Why is the serum texture good for hyperpigmentation?
“Serums often contain higher concentrations of active ingredients that will help address hyperpigmentation” explains the skincare expert. “Moreover, they tend to be light weight in texture and are designed for quick penetration and absorption into the skin, meaning the good stuff gets to where it needs to go”.
What ingredients should you be looking for?
Moore adds“Vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, and gentle acids like lactic, mandelic, and salicylic acid are all powerful ingredients for addressing hyperpigmentation (when used alongside daily SPF, of course). Hydroquinone is another amazing ingredient, though it is a regulated ingredient in the UK and must be prescribed by a doctor”.
CeraVe Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite also waxes lyrical about the vitamin A derivative. “Retinol is one a dermatologist's favourite ingredients as it has so many skin benefits. Retinol helps turn the skin over more effectively, stimulates collagen which improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduces the appearance of pores and pigmentation. By improving cellular turnover and reducing the production and transfer of pigment (melanin) within the skin”.
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Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Professional Grade IPL Dark Spot Concentrated Serum
Dr Dennis Gross founded his eponymous clinic and skincare line to bring pioneering treatments to tackle concerns like fine lines and dark spots. This serum was formulated with a potent composition in order to give hyperpigmentation a run for its money, no pricey facial necessary.
It is created with L-ascorbic acid and lactic acid that encourage cell turnover to remove overpigmented surface cells and encourage a radiant complexion in their wake. The serum glides over clean skin and the result is a even complexion with sun spots faded. It really works.
Buy now £99.00, Cult Beauty
SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Corrective Serum
For stubborn dark spots, you’ll want to call in the big guns: enter SkinCeuticals. This formula puts a science-backed combination of potent ingredients together in order to fade hyperpigmentation and discolouration and leave a healthy glow behind.
It uses tranexamic acid for its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide for minimising the appearance of pores and fine lines and sulfonic acid for a gentle exfoliation to buff away dead skin cells for a more even look. You will notice the results in just a few weeks.
Buy now £90.00, lookfantastic
Soho Skin Renewal Serum
You may already be familiar with Cowshed, Soho House’s collection of bodycare favourites but now the private members’ club has expanded its repetoire into the realm of skincare with Soho Skin.
The Renewal Serum has gained a cult following in a short amount of time for its ability to brighten and even out skin tone. This is made possible through a specialised smart melanin modulator that is combined with firming peptides and collagen-boosting active ingredients. It absorbs quickly into the skin with a soothing effect.
Buy now £76.00, Space NK
Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C + Ferulic Dark Spot Serum
Tackling texture, tone and clarity is this supercharged serum from K Beauty favourite Glow Recipe. The South Koren-born label uses fruit and fruit-derived ingredients as the brand signature. It’s guava that takes a starring role in this product, which is comined with some seriously buzzy components.
The cocktail includes anti-ageing vitamin A, radiance boosting vitamin C, free radical fighting ferulic acid, nourishing vitamin E and resufacing acids to bring you smooth and glowy skin with the minimisation in hyperpigmentation.
The pastel pink hue might not give the impression that this is a hard-working and efficacious product but you’d be sorely mistaken to judge this particular book by its cover.
Buy now £41.00, Cult Beauty
Biossance Squalane and Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum
If you’re just diving into the world of skincare, prepare to find squalane everywhere among the latest launches. The ingredient that mimics the skin’s natural production of squalene (with an e) has come a long way in a short time and is now hailed as one of the best moisturising components on the market. It also takes a starring role across Biossance’s range where the skincare label is a bellwether of its usage. In this particular serum, it’s set alongside glow-giving vitamin C for brightening and hydration as well as white shiitake mushroom for its lightening effect on dark spots.
Buy now £49.00, Space NK
VERSO Dark Spot Fix
This product from VERSO does what is says on the tin. It acts as a targeted treatment, which you apply direcly onto the dark spots in question to counteract discolouration and marks to leave an even complexion. At the heart is the highest dose of Retinol 8 Complex that you’ll find across the range so there’s benefits to fine lines and wrinkles too as it works to stimulate your skin’s natural production of collagen.
Buy now £85.00, lookfantastic
Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum
The results speak for themselves with Murad and its Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum. With continual use, you should notice dark spots fading in colour after just a few applications. The serum texture of the product, which should be used daily after cleansing and toning and followed by moisturiser, encourages cell turnover with a brightening and glow-enhancing effect. It combines the subtle exfoliation of glycolic acid with the antioxidant resorcinol to even out skin tone and smooth skin at the same time. The texture is light so can be layered under makeup if needed.
The brand’s InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment (£35) should also be on your radar.
Buy now £75.00, FeelUnique
Peace Out Dark Spots Serum
Peace Out was created by the founder Enrico Frezza in a response to his own struggles with acne. The brand takes a no-nonsense approach to blemish busting with powerhouse products that are simple to use.
This serum combines AHAs and active ingredients to tackle dark spots and give a radiance boost to dull complexions. Whether it’s discoloration, age spots, pollution damage or hyperpigmentation, the combination of Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid and Alpha-Arbutin gets to work to lighten and brighten.
For a more targetted treatment, try the brand’s Dark Spots patches.
Buy now £24.00, Cult Beauty
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Serum
This serum from Allies of Skin is best applied at night and left to work its magic as you slumber. It is targeted specifically to treat stubborn hyperpigmentation, large pores, breakouts, and uneven texture, turning your concerns on their head to leave you with luminous glass-skin.
As you sleep, it strengthens skin’s natural barrier through the combination of mandelic acid with other powerhouse ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol, peptides and organic rosehip. These work in tandem to achieve noticeable improvements in the skin - evening out texture, firming, boosting elasticity and calming redness. A little goes a long way. Use nightly.
Buy now £89.00, Space NK
