There’s no question that shopping pre-loved is on the rise - and for good reason.
With the idea to buy less but buy better, there has been a surge in popularity of vintage shopping as well as interest in platforms like Depop and Vinted where finding second-hand gems is viewed as not only kinder to the planet but on the bank balance too. While there has always been this demand in the watch market, it is reaching a fever pitch.
In a report by the Boston Consulting Group, secondhand watch sales, which accounted for 24 per cent of all luxury watch purchases in 2022, are expected to take 35 per cent of the market by 2026 - amounting to a massive $35 billion.
It’s no wonder when you consider the endless benefits of shopping pre-owned. You may be on the lookout for a unique timepiece that no one else owns, a discontinued design, wrist candy by one of the horological greats for a fraction of the price, or would rather have a wristwatch that’s full of character instead of a soulless off-the-rack purchase.
There’s also the popularity of certain styles and brands to think about, which leaves collectors and new shoppers alike stuck on waiting lists to secure the likes of Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe where demand has exceeded supply for years and years. Find a second-hand model and it could be adorning your wrist in weeks rather than years.
We caught up with Daniel Somlo, director of vintage watch boutique Somlo London based in London’s Burlington Arcade, to find out his top tips on shopping second-hand - and rounded up our favourite online stores in the list below.
What are your top tips for selecting a pre-owned watch?
The best advice for selecting a vintage watch is to buy what you love. People get hung up on watches being investments, and many of them are, but at the heart of it, they are luxury items that are meant to be worn and enjoyed. Trends can change and values rise and fall but if you buy a watch that you love, you can’t go wrong because you will still love it. That’s what is important.
What types of pre-owned watches retain their value over time?
None of us have a crystal ball but in my experience, if you buy rare pieces that are in good condition from reputable brands, you put yourself at an advantage.
How do you make sure the pre-owned watch you're buying is genuine?
Experience is by far the best way, the more you view and handle, the better you will know what is genuine. That being said, many people don’t have the opportunity to handle a lot of vintage watches, so buying from a reputable dealer who provides guarantees is a much safer thing to do. Additionally, many big brands offer a service where they can verify watches, so you know whether the movement is original or not.
Have you noticed an increase in interest in pre-owned watches in recent years?
I've found that the interest in vintage watches has been increasing steadily for some time. Now that wearing smaller watches has become more fashionable again, many people are looking to vintage iterations of well-known watches as they tend to be a little smaller.
Keep scrolling for find the pre-owned watch boutiques you need to know about.
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1st Dibs
With over 15,000 options to sift through, 1st Dibs offers an unrivalled selection of vintage watches. Whether you’re in the market for a Cartier or a Rolex, a Patek Philippe or an Audemars Piguet, you will find all the big-name brands included in the expansive offering. Our top tip? Make the most of the filters to narrow the search down to just your favourites.
Buy now, 1st Dibs
Watchfinder & Co.
If you have any reservations about authenticity when shopping online, Watchfinder & Co. is the store for you. Each of the pre-owned watches sold through the brand undergoes a rigorous 60-step authentication process to ensure every piece is genuine - and the range on offer is full of coveted designs that would make a great addition to any timepiece collection. If you prefer to browse in person, you can head to one of the six nationwide stores instead.
Buy now, Watchfinder & Co.
Mappin & Webb
If you’re in the market for a unique vintage watch that feels like new, Mapin & Webb should be your first port of call. Every design you see on the website has been reconditioned and serviced by the retailer itself - Tag Heuer, Cartier and Omega included - before arriving with the boutique. Even better, that means they’re all brand-certified, fully warranted and guaranteed for two years.
Buy now, Mappin & Webb
Vestiaire Collective
Perhaps the most famous online marketplace for second-hand luxury goods, Vestiaire Collective should be on your radar if you like to shop pre-loved - whether you’re in the market for a bag or a wristwatch.
Like Watchfinder & Co., each design undergoes an authentication process before being sold through the website. Unlike other retailers in this edit, you can find watches for as little as £25 from the likes of Casio and Swatch alongside those that are over £100,000 by Audemars Piguet and Rolex.
Buy now, Vestiaire Collective
Goldsmiths
Goldsmiths opened its first brick-and-mortar establishment in Newcastle in 1778 - and in the 230 years since, it has become a British household name with over 90 stores nationwide. While it’s most famous for its range of fine jewellery and diamonds, the jeweller now offers a range of pre-loved watches too. You can expect certified designs from the likes of OMEGA, Breitling and Cartier which all come with a two-year warranty.
Buy now, Goldsmiths
Ramsdens
Offering a curated selection of designer watches, each and every one of the timepieces on Ramsdens’ website is certified authentic by one of the label’s watch experts. With prices ranging from £299 to £36,999, there’s something for every price point.
And, if you can’t find what you like in the current selection, you can fill out the watch finder form for one of the specialists to source exactly what you want - which they aim to do within five working days.
Buy now, Ramsdens Jewellery
House of Watches
While you may not have heard of House of Watches before, we’re sure you’re familiar with high street jeweller T H Baker. Well, it turns out they’re one and the same.
With a selection of brands that spans Rado, Rolex, Longines and Bulgari, the vast range of timepieces on offer means every taste and budget is taken care of.
Buy now, House of Watches
Solmo London
Based in London’s Burlington Arcade, Solmo is one of the best stores in the capital to bag yourself an antique watch. With a curated collection that spans early 16th-century pre-balance spring watches, fine quality enamels and Art Deco cocktail watches, you’re sure to find a style that suits your preferences. The good news? If you’re not likely to be in London any time soon, you can browse online, too.
Buy now, Solmo
