If you know your skincare ABCs, you’ll likely already be familiar with glycolic acid.
We are a nation of skintellectuals, becoming more and more versed in the minute of skincare ingredients before we take the plunge on purchases. We know all too well that makeup wipes are not only bad for the planet, but not an effective makeup remover either. We try our best to leave squeezing, poking and proding out of our blemish-fighting practices and we’ve minimised the use of potent, too-harsh formulations that leave a drying, flaking mess in their wake.
The beauty industry has evolved to match our growing consciousness and that has led to brands spotlighting specific ingredients with the likes of The Ordinary and The INKEY List leading the way with their affordable, efficacious ranges. Glycolic acid is an ingredient that has emerged as one of the most popular and sought-after.
On TikTok, videos referencing the component have recieved over 967.9m views, and has been connected with such benefits as counteracting dandruff, removing skin tags, and transforming cracked feet as well as its original purpose for exfoliation that has extended to bacne, ingrown hairs and strawberry legs.
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. We consulted two experts CeraVe Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite and Medical and Cosmetic Doctor Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe, an ambassador for Kiehl’s to go back to basics in explaining the mania behind the buffing active ingredient.
What is glycolic acid?
Dr Ukeleghe explains, “Glycolic acid is an exfoliating ingredient that is derived from sugar cane. It is also classed as an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid). Glycolic Acid has a low molecular weight meaning it penetrates the skin quickly and easily. It removes the outermost dead skin cells, revealing smoother, glowy skin”.
What does glycolic acid do?
“Glycolic acid is an exfoliant, helping to remove dead skin cells and impurities from the skin’s surface”, says Dr Alexis Granite. “Glycolic acid also exerts effects deeper in the dermis, helping to stimulate collagen production.
“Overall, when used consistently, glycolic acid boosts skin radiance and evens tone as well as minimises the appearance of fine lines”, she continues.
Can you use glycolic acid with retinol?
Both derms are in agreement that it is technically possible to use retinol with glycolic but both advise caution for most skin types, especially those with sensitive and dry. “Retinol accelerates skin turnover”, explains Dr Granite, “so while not a true exfoliant, retinol does help shed some of the uppermost dead skin cell layer. This combined with glycolic acid has the potential to cause irritation as the ingredients will penetrate more effectively. So stick to lower concentration products and make sure you are tolerating one ingredient well first prior to starting the other. You can also alternate them, using glycolic acid one night and retinol the next to increase tolerability.
Dr Ukeleghe adds, “Keep it simple and cycle them”.
How to use glycolic acid?
“Glycolic acid can be used in a number of different ways including both rinse off and leave on products (cleansers, peels, serums, moisturisers)” reveals Dr Granite. “When first starting out I would suggest using a glycolic acid product no more than three times per week and increasing as tolerated. A wash containing glycolic acid can be a good place to start”.
“Pick whichever formulation works best for your skin type and skincare routine and be sure to diligently apply sunscreen too as it makes the skin more photosensitive” Dr Ukeleghe stresses.
Is glycolic acid good for acne?
Dr Granite answers,“Glycolic acid is definitely beneficial for acne, as it helps to loosen the “glue” between dead skin cells, improving congestion”. She suggests taking a cocktail approach “Glycolic acid is also gentle enough to be combined with other acids in over the counter products for acne such as lactic acid and salicylic acid where the effects of these ingredients work synergistically together. CeraVe’s Blemish Control Gel is a great example of this”.
“It can be useful for the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation associated with acne, but less so for the breakout itself” Dr Ukeleghe explains further. “This is because glycolic acid is water soluble, meaning that it cannot penetrate oil. Therefore rendering it less effective than acids such as salicylic acid at addressing excess sebum/acne”.
Shop the best skincare products containing glycolic acid below
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Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment
This treatment from Sunday Riley has a cult following and for good reason. If you ever see the product featured in “empties” videos, it’s almost always followed by a direct replacement for its ability to smooth, brighten and clarify the complexion. It’s a potent treatment that is made up of tiny molecules of the star, named ingredient glycolic acid. This allows it to penetrate deep into the skin, dissolving dirt and grime that can clog pores to prevent congestion, while also serving up anti-ageing benefits with its ability to minimise the look of fine lines.
This component is set alongside lactic acid for further buffing as well as prickly pear extract that makes the formula more tolerable for those with sensitivities. Lemongrass extract is also used for its brightening benefits.
The list is extensive but just a few things you’ll notice with continual use is; reduced hyperpigmentation, a boost in circulation, healing of scar tissue, radiance and a more youthful complexion. Win-win-win-win.
Buy now £70.00, Cult Beauty
Kiehl’s Ultra Pure 10% Glycolic Acid Texture-Smoothing High-Potency Serum
Kiehl’s has recently launched a trio of active ingredient-based serums. One is centred around hyaluronic acid for plumping and hydration, one spotlights balancing niacinamide and the last, but certainly not least, is all about glycolic acid with a dose of 9.8 per cent and only six other components by its side.
Apply this in the evening with only four or so drop necessary and follow with moisturiser. This doesn’t need to be everyday, just when you need a little refining of your complexion. Make sure you follow the next morning with SPF. The glycolic acts as an exfoliant but thanks to the inclusion of hyaluronic acid and glycerin, it’s hydrating too and means it can be tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive. The product preps the skin for what follows to boost radiance and even out texture.
Buy now £29.00, Kiehl’s
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment
If you’re just dipping your toe into glycolic acid, this is a gentle way to incorporate it into your skincare routine. Simply layer onto cleansed skin at night and pat it in for full absorption. When you wake, the glowy effects are immediate.
Radiance in a jar, the combination of AHAs that include glycolic acid as well as lactic removes dullness-causing dead skin cells and infuses your complexion with seven weights of hydrating hyaluronic acid to reach deeper than the surface level of the skin. It also gets to work combatting pigmentation and discoloration with niacinamide and a quinoa peptide, the latter of which is firming. The pale pink packaging is hard to resist, elevating your shelfie game.
Buy now £19.00, Cult Beauty
SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Cream
SkinCeuticals is known for its science-backed efficacious formulations with a powerful punch and this cream follows suit. Much like the glycolic treatments that you’ll find on the market, it is designed to work overnight for a clear complexion when your morning alarm rings out.
It contains a 10 per cent hit of the main ingredient to even out tone and texture, boost brightening and thanks to the inclusion of calming botanicals, you shouldn’t find it irritating. Start slow with one application a week and build up your tolerance if it stings on first application.
Buy now £88.00, lookfantastic
Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum
Legendary skincare label Drunk Elephant has been leading the pack, launching clean product with no nasties in sight before it became the trend that it is today. The T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum has been a stalwart in its collection for a while and remains ever popular with its loyal fan base as a decongesting, resurfacing nightly gel serum that sloughs off dead skin cells that may be interfering with the smooth, glowy complexion that you deserve. There’s also BHA in the formula too, which is where the clarifying and pore de-clogging come in - all without stripping the skin or leaving a dryness or flaking in its wake.
Buy now £76.00, lookfantastic
Alpha-H Liquid Gold Exfoliating Treatment with Glycolic Acid
If the name itself isn’t enough to win you over, then the powerful chemical exfoliation that Liquid Gold gives just might. The formula has 5 per cent glycolic that is designed to accelerate the skin’s renewal process and thus improve the appearance of pigmention and dullness as well as signs of ageing like fine lines.
When you live in the city, you might find that the build up of pollution is wreaking havoc on your complexion, so that’s when you’ll want Alpha-H on your side to fortify the protective barrier, eliminating that build-up to smooth out skin.
Buy now £42.99, lookfantastic
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
The Ordinary’s MO is simple, effective and affordable skincare products and this solution is the embodiment of why the label is so beloved. It provides an effective buffing solution using a 7 per cent solution of the star AHA for a more mild buffing process than the harsh physical exfoliants on the market.
This means you are getting all the benefits of increased radiance without the after effects of irritation or redness - especially due to the inclusion of a Tasmanian pepperberry derivative, ginseng root and aloe vera that are soothing. Silky smooth skin is just a swipe away.
Buy now £11.50, Boots
Medik8 Sleep Glycolic
If you’ve tried professional chemical peels in the past and you’ve had an adverse reaction, this is a more gentle alternative that still has many of the same effects that appear while you slumber. There’s 10 per cent glycolic with its ability to counter uneven texture and dullness - but word of warning, it’s not a daily use kind of product.
Use once a week at first, before building up as your skin gets more tolerant. You’ll find your skin is so soft in the morning.
Buy now £39.00, Medik8
StriVectin Advanced Resurfacing Daily Reveal Exfoliating Pads 60s
Combat congestion and even out texture with the ease of these pads that mean you need not worry about the right amount of product to apply or taking cotton wool with you on your next trip.
Use just one a day for your exfoliating needs and the brand suggests that you will boost your skin’s own cell turnover rate in only three days. They are simultaneously potent yet not too harsh and leave fresh skin behind without drying out the complexion.
Buy now £39.00, Boots
