According to a recent study by beauty brand Aveeno, as many as 71 per cent of us believe we have sensitive skin, ranging from mildly irritated through to serious diseases such as eczema and dermatitis.
This makes navigating the world of skincare rather complicated for those with easily angered complexions, particularly when it comes to choosing and using anti-ageing formulas with active ingredients.
Retinoids, the family of ingredients derived from vitamin A that vary in strength and are the gold standard when it comes to anti-ageing, have always been especially challenging for those with sensitivities and so are usually regarded a no-no. “Retinoids increase cell skin turnover and renewal and this results in increased shedding of cells on the skin’s surface,” explains Dr Sonia Khorana, the Birmingham-based dermatology doctor renowned as the DermGP. “This will result in some irritation which will show up as redness, peeling or flaking in some individuals and can be much worse in those with dry, sensitive skin who tend to suffer skin irritation.”
However, advancements in formulating and technology are now allowing those with sensitive skin to enjoy the anti-ageing benefits of retinoids without the worry of causing a reaction. From slow release encapsulation to teaming up with ingredients that act as a counterbalance, smart skincare companies are finding ways around what’s been a delicate issue for decades. “Look for formulas that contain ingredients that can soothe the skin and help combat irritation and dryness such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycerin, squalane and ceramides,” advises Dr Sonia. “Percentages of retinoids in a formula are important too, so be sure to start with a low one.”
If your still nervous about your sensitive complexion, there are simple tricks to ease you into a new retinoid routine too. “Start slow and steady, using a pea sized amount two or three nights a week and building up over the course of a month,” suggests Dr Sonia. “You can also train your skin by using ‘short contact therapy’. This technique involves applying a retinoid to skin, and then letting it sit on the surface for a few minutes before washing it off. Your skin will slowly adjust and you can gradually increase the time you leave it on and ultimately leave it on overnight.”
Finally, remember that using any form of retinoid means sunscreen of at least SPF30 is non-negotiable. Every day, all year round. As retinoids speed up the production of fresh new skin cells to replace the old damaged ones, skin can be more sensitive and needs protecting from being damaged by the sun’s UV rays. And if you’re feeling sensitive already, who wants more?
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Verso Super Elixir
This superlight oil is based around a new, patented molecule developed by VERSO called NEAR 1, which fuses together the super duo of retinol and niacinamide. The retinol is a unique, hypoallergenic version making it suited to the most reactive skins, while niacinamide acts to stabilise the vitamin A, minimise irritation and inflammation, plus strengthen the skin’s natural barrier.
Both work at maximum strength for excellent results but in the gentlest of ways and are backed up by soothing licorice root and squalane to lock in moisture. Just a few drops morning and evening are needed as a little goes a long way, it absorbs instantly and leaves skin feeling comfortable and satin soft. The results are a brighter, bouncier and smoother complexion that radiates a more even tone without inducing any redness.
Buy now £155.00, Cult Beauty
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
Retinoids are notoriously tricky to use around the delicate eye area, but even more so if you have sensitive skin. This smart formula includes a trio of both fast- and slow-release versions of vitamin A to ensure it delivers on the results but offsets any potential irritation of sensitive skin.
Tap in around the entire orbital bone every evening and morning (followed by an SPF), you can even use it on the eyelids. This light gel-cream boasts a triple blend of fast-acting retinoid, time-released retinol and a retinol booster that softens out lines and deeper wrinkles, creating a firmer, fresher look within weeks. Cotton wool grass extract adds all-day hydration, while marine kelp extract has a brightening and lifting effect so peepers look more alert.
Buy now £82.00, Murad
Oskia Super-R Retinoid Sleep Serum Capsules
Designed to be slotted into your routine and applied in the evening after serum, this fine fluid feels like a dry oil and glides over the face before sinking in fast without leaving behind any sticky residue.
It’s rich in the fantastic vitamin trifecta of A, C and E, meaning not only will the 0.5 per cent retinoid help firm and smooth the skin, but an encapsulated form of vitamin C brightens while vitamin E offers antioxidant protection. An added omega 3-rich ingredient gives extra levels of soothing and calming protection for sensitive skin, while the mono dose capsules ensure the complexion receives the right amount of serum for active benefits without irritation.
Buy now £75.00, Space NK
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Stable Retinal Night Serum Gentle-Strength Vitamin A
The clever ‘retinal ladder’ system created by Medik8 allows users to progress through formula strengths, with Retinal 1, with the lowest amount of 0.01 per cent retinaldehyde, recommended as a starting point for those with sensitive skin. This particular version of vitamin A works eleven times faster and is as gentle as regular retinol, but said to be as effective as prescription strength when it comes to resurfacing skin and helping rebuilding collagen.
The slow, steady release delivery system helps keep chances of redness reduced too. Vitamin E and hyaluronic acid ramp up moisture content and the peachy tintalso gives the complexion a warm glow.
Buy now £45.00, Medik8
Pixi Retinol Tonic Advanced Youth Preserving Toner
The brand may be famous for its Glow Tonic, but this retinol-based alternative from the toner collection is a worthy rival. Formulated to be swept over skin morning and evening via a cotton pad between cleansing and serum or moisturiser, it incorporates all the anti-ageing benefits of retinol in a light touch, easy-to-access way.
The time-release vitamin A helps gently smooth and refine as well as softening fine lines without overwhelming the skin, while added peptides promote collagen production for firmness. The introduction of jasmine flower not only gives the tonic a pretty floral scent, but also brings in soothing properties to ease the effects on sensitive complexions.
Buy now £10.00, Boots
La Roche Posay 0.3% Retinol + Vitamin B3 Serum
As a leader in dermatologist-approved formulas, La Roche Posay is well placed to create retinol-focused skincare that balances efficacy with concerns about sensitivity. Using three drops in the evening, the retinol, in a low amount, produces results without irritation to improve the tone and texture of skin as well as smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.
Also helping keep the complexion calm, this vitamin A is balanced out by vitamin B3 – niacinamide – that has soothing, anti-inflammatory qualities as well as helping skin hold on to moisture. The serum is rich enough to ensure skin is plump and comfortable but won’t leave the surface feeling tacky or weighed down.
Buy now £40.00, Boots
Skin Rocks Retinoid 1
The brainchild of beauty guru Caroline Hirons, Retinoids by Skin Rocks comes in two strengths, with number 1 specifically designed for use on sensitive skin at night. The “entry level,” light cream tackles pigmentation, fine lines and breakouts so skin looks and feels smoother, more even toned and has a better glow.
The active retinoid is 0.2 per cent hydroxypinacolone retinoate, which is enough to do its work without causing a reaction if skin is sensitive. It’s also bolstered by retinol-alternative bakuchiol to help improve the benefits, while squalane and vitamin E keep the complexion soft and moisturised. You can do your bit for the environment (and purse) too by buying a refill rather than a new bottle when the time comes.
Buy now £65.00, Space NK
Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Inspired by the science of micro-dosing, or delivering potent ingredients in low and precise dosages, the aim is to encourage consistent use by offering a gentle build-up of benefits without any reactive behaviour.
So a single pump of the creamy serum, which can be used day or night, delivers the ideal amount of retinol for sensitive skin. This encourages anti-aging cell turnover and increases tolerance to the vitamin A without causing cell renewal to over-accelerate or disrupt the skin barrier, causing redness and irritation. Added ceramides help strengthen the skin’s external defences and keep it feeling supple while the serum leaves a satiny finish that’s a fantastic base for make-up during the day too.
Buy now £65.00, Kiehl’s
SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 Face Cream for Ageing and Blemish-Prone Skin
A pea-sized amount of this highly-concentrated cream in the evening is enough to help refine and repair sensitive skin that is showing signs of ageing, from wrinkles to pigmentation, or is prone to inflamed breakouts.
The special delivery system that gets the retinol to where it’s needed keeps the ingredients stable as it smooths and improves tone as well as encourage natural hyaluronic acid in the skin to increase, giving a plumper appearance.
Two botanical extracts, from chamomile and frankincense, help to minimise any inflammation or irritation, plus the fine nozzle dispenser keep the formula’s potency intact and discourages you from over-applying too.
Buy now £72.00, SkinCeuticals
Farmacy 1% Vitamin A Retinol Serum
This product has upcycled melon seed oil at its heart that not only sets the subtle, fresh scent but also boosts moisture and elasticity. There’s also upcycled raspberry seed oil, which soothes and nourishes to help ease any irritation and shows that this super sheer fluid boasts eco-credentials as well as impressive retinoid ingredients.
The duo of a fast acting retinal to help smooth roughness and wrinkles quickly, alongside an encapsulated retinol to improve tone, texture and lines over time, allows sensitive skin to benefit from both short and long term results whilst fighting off redness in what is described as a ‘clean’ formula.
Buy now £55.00, Space NK
Verdict
While the price tag on Verso Skin Elixir may swing pretty hefty, the technology, benefits and texture that it offers are equally as impressive – if not more so - as those delivered by more punchy, agressive formulas. Only the smallest amount is needed so the bottle will last a long time, helping take the sting out of the cost.
But it’s the synergy of ingredients that are most exciting, as gentle versions of powerful retinol and niacinamide are brought together in the exclusive NEAR 1 molecule that boosts glow, smoothes lines and tackles discolouration without causing any inflammation or irritation. That’s quite a feat when it comes to formulating for easily angered, sensitive skin.
