You knew it was going to be a good day when jam roly-poly was served for pudding at school. It’s a proper comfort dish, with just the right level of stodge for a cold January day. I wouldn’t have gone near a marmalade version when I was younger, but that tangy bitterness is a taste I’m glad to have since acquired. Hot custard really is the best sidekick for this, so don’t hold back.