BODEGA BAY, Calif. — Sara Bogard halted her dog as the two began descending the cliff down to Manchester Beach, along the Mendocino coast.
Below, scores of dead and dying birds littered the beach as far as she could see.
“The smell hit me first,” said Bogard, describing the musty odor of northern fulmars scattered along the beach that mid-December morning. The smell, she recalled, was “kind of like a grandmother’s closet.”