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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Stephen Emms

A walk along the Essex coast to a historic pub: the Crooked Billet, Leigh-on-Sea

Gunners Park and Shoebury Ranges nature reserve runs parallel to the coast path near the start of the walk.
Gunners Park and Shoebury Ranges nature reserve runs parallel to the coast path near the start of the walk. All photographs by Andy Hall/The Guardian Photograph: Andy Hall/The Observer

Why is the Essex coast so underrated? Close to London, and arguably as pretty as any other, is it because there’s something unchanging about it – perhaps even conventional? And yet stepping off the train at Shoeburyness – the last stop on the capital to coast railway from Fenchurch Street – feels gently discombobulating.

There’s always a romantic quality about the end of the line, and just a few minutes’ walk away there is a vast estuary foreshore with rocky outcrops under an expansive Essex sky.

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