It was a little chilly, with a strong wind whipping at the robes of the druids, and cloud meant the sunrise was a soft blur rather than a spectacular blaze.
But the thousands who turned up on Salisbury Plain to mark the solstice at Stonehenge relished the moment when the sun climbed again after the longest night.
“I always try to come if I can get time off,” said Jane Clark, a care home worker from Bristol. “For me it’s a lovely, mellow celebration, a time to reflect, think about the year that’s almost gone and the one coming up. It’s also wonderful to think we’ve turned a corner and are heading towards spring and summer.”
The winter solstice at Stonehenge used to be a much more modest affair, especially compared with the hedonistic excesses of its summer equivalent. It was, of course, hugely important for the druids and other pagan people for whom Stonehenge is a temple, but not such a draw for “civilian” visitors.
In recent years, it has become much more popular and with 20 minutes to go before sunrise on Friday, the car parks at Stonehenge were full. Almost 7,000 people were also watching via a live feed, tuning in from across the UK but also Australia, the US and south-east Asia. A few complained about the music English Heritage added to the feed but the chat box was dominated by messages of goodwill and peace.
Dr Jennifer Wexler, a senior properties historian at English Heritage, said: “I do think the winter solstice has become more popular. The winter solstice marks the turning of the year, the return of the light and end of the long, dark nights.
“It evokes the start or perhaps hope for something new, marking both an annual cycle and change – all things that draw people to the site at this time of the year. I think also the spirituality of the event and the site is more potent in the winter, there’s something really magical wandering across cold, misty fields in the dark and seeing lights across the landscape as people gather to celebrate the return of the light. For me, it evokes the feeling of what it might have been like 4,000 years ago.
Usually the stones are roped off but at the solstices and equinoxes, English Heritage allows managed access. On Friday there was dancing, pipe playing, drum banging and stone hugging, while Arthur Pendragon, who says he is the present incarnation of the once and future king, knighted loyal followers.
Countless pictures were taken and posted on social media feeds but many others left their phones in their pockets and savoured a special moment.
The solstice comes at a time when Stonehenge has been in the headlines over the government’s controversial plan to build a road tunnel close to the great circle. Earlier this month opponents of the project decamped from Wiltshire to the high court to try to get the plan scrapped.
But politics was kept out of these solstice celebrations. John Adams, the chair of the Stonehenge Alliance, which is fighting against the tunnel, said the group had decided not to campaign there this year but instead just enjoy the feeling of the move from darkness to light.
He said: “The monument at solstice becomes a focal point, reflecting for some a felt connection to ancient beliefs in the cyclical nature of the world and to others a natural human response of embracing light and warmth.”
One of the loveliest elements of winter solstice at Stonehenge is the sense of togetherness. All sorts of people from all walks of life turn up and get on.
Lois Lloyd, an archdruid, said she was happy that so many people headed to the stones at this time of year. “It’s so heartening that growing numbers of people with no spiritual or sacred intent are making the often very difficult, long, cold journey to attend,” she said. “I’ve met so many who find solace, energy and comfort in such a primordial place.”
