On a recent trip to Spain, I noticed something called torrijas on the dessert menu. A quick Google told me to expect French toast, but what arrived couldn’t have been farther from what I’d imagined. The first surprise was that it was cold, and the second was a crunchy layer of caramelised sugar on top covering a pillowy-soft, custardy interior infused with orange and cinnamon. I’ve since discovered there are many regional variations, so this is my attempt to recreate the dish I tried that day.