As I heft the weight of the backpack on to my shoulders, I ask myself: am I too old for this? In my 20s I would regularly take off for days of wild camping, but now, in my 40s, I have accumulated more than a few aches from all those youthful adventures. Still, on this pilgrim trip across the South Downs from Lewes to Cuckmere Haven, I can leave the tent behind, as I will be sleeping in places of sanctuary along the way.
