There’s something undeniably seductive about newness, especially when it comes to skincare. Whether you’re reeled in by sleek packaging or a futuristic ingredient (looking at you, exosomes, peptides, and salmon sperm), it can be hard to resist trying out every single trend that hits shelves or your FYP. No offense to the latest and greatest skincare innovations, but in the quest for flawless skin, it’s often best to go back to basics. I’m talking about tried-and-true ingredients that actually work and have heaps of data to prove it.
To make things oh-so-simple, scale things back to the ABCs—that is, vitamins A, B, and C in topical form. “The ABCs are backed by scientific evidence for their ability to rejuvenate the skin and for their safety with long-term use,” says Michele Green, MD, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City. “These ingredients are the gold standard for reversing signs of aging and pigmentation and hydrating the skin.”
Discover the need-to-know intel on ABC skincare and how each ingredient—admittedly basic as they are—could yield your best complexion yet.
Vitamin A Skin Benefits
Ask any dermatologist what her desert-island topical would be, and retinoids are sure to top the list—or share the spotlight with sunscreen, at the very least. This category includes over-the-counter retinol, retinal, and adapalene, as well as prescription tretinoin. They’re all vitamin A derivatives that help to slough off dead skin cells, increase skin cell renewal, and promote collagen synthesis—resulting in smoother, brighter, and tighter skin. Better yet, they’re powerful in addressing a wide range of complexion concerns. Per Dr. Green, these topicals are excellent for anyone hoping to address fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, acne and acne scars, enlarged pores, and uneven skin texture and tone. (Overachiever much?)
Vitamin A derivatives come in varying strengths, with retinol being the most tolerable and tretinoin being the most intense. While Dr. Green ultimately recommends consulting a dermatologist to see which option and cadence are ideal for you, she offers a few insights as you begin your search. For instance, “those with mild fine lines or wrinkles may benefit from a weaker retinol, while individuals with more moderate to severe skin concerns may benefit from a strong retinoid,” she says. If you’re just starting out, she advises applying it every other night before gradually increasing to nightly use, so long as your skin can tolerate it. And if you catch a case of the retinol uglies (telltale signs of which include purging, redness, and dryness), mix it into your moisturizer or try out the sandwich method, in which you buffer the active with moisturizer before and after application.
Vitamin B Skin Benefits
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) and panthenol (vitamin B5) are a bit more under-the-radar but impressive nonetheless. According to David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Soho Dermatology in New York City, it’s fantastic for brightening and barrier repair. But that’s not all: Niacinamide is basically a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to skincare. Its benefits also include everything from reducing inflammation and hyperpigmentation to regulating oil production and managing acne and melasma. Bonus: The skincare superstar pairs well with tons of other ingredients, and you’re bound to find it in countless serums alongside other actives to soothe your skin and get your glow on. “It's great for all skin types and it's a good one to have all around the year,” adds Dr. Kim. That said, there can be too much of a good thing. In case your skin is sensitive, he advises maxing out at five percent. Plus, it’s in your best interest to include just a single niacinamide product in your regular routine to avoid upping your concentration amongst several products.
Next up is panthenol, which is lesser-known than others on this list but a true savior for those with sensitive complexions. You can also think of it as a supporting player in your lineup that makes actives tolerable and more sustainable for long-term use. “Panthenol is a soothing and calming ingredient,” says Dr. Kim. “It'll help with redness and irritation, and is great for all skin types.” Dr. Green adds that panthenol acts as a humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the environment into the skin—all the while strengthening the skin barrier. While the other ingredients in your ABC skincare routine are typically ideal to use via serums, which deliver high concentrations to maximize benefits, she says that cleansers and moisturizers containing panthenol are particularly well-suited for dry skin.
Vitamin C Skin Benefits
Last but not least, we have vitamin C: a heavy hitter that deserves a spot in pretty much any skincare arsenal. “Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that works to increase skin cell renewal, protect against oxidative stress and free radical damage, and stimulate collagen production,” says Dr. Green. Vitamin C serums, she adds, are excellent to correct signs of aging (from fine lines to photodamage), reduce redness and inflammation, fade hyperpigmentation and melasma, and brighten the skin. For best results, apply it in the morning—followed up by sunscreen, of course—to neutralize free radical damage from the sun and other environmental stressors throughout the day.
The Bottom Line on ABC Skincare
As a beauty writer and lifelong skincare obsessive, I know how tempting it is to curate your skincare shelf with the hottest and newest actives. However, the truth is that glowing, resilient skin isn’t built on novelty. In most cases, it’s best to stick with less buzzy ingredients that are time-tested and derm-approved. “Newer, trendier skincare products may be enticing, but they are not well-studied and can result in skin irritation,” cautions Dr. Green. After all, the last thing you want to do is add another complexion concern to your list. And while ABC skincare is an easy-to-follow standard to lean on, nothing beats personalization—ideally under the guidance of a dermatologist.
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