When Harry Met Sally comes around unexpectedly: you catch it on a flight, in a hotel room, or, sometimes, on iPlayer. Anyway, we watch it every few years and, every time we do, it’s just as fresh, just as good, just as biting, sharp, perfectly timed and expertly performed as it was on the first viewing. Each time, we’re also surprised by how food-centric it is: so many key scenes take place in restaurants, as do so many of the best lines (“Waiter, there’s too much pepper in my paprikas”), so, if there is one movie that should be celebrated in recipes, WHMS has to be it. To paraphrase one of Nora Ephron’s best lines, recipes are to people in the 2020s what movies were to people in the 1980s. We hope she would approve.