Food
The Mercado Central de Abastos is the heart of Cádiz and where we locals go to buy our fresh fish, seafood, fruit and vegetables. It also has a lot of cafes where you can order anything from fried fish to an empanada. My favourites are Lady Papa’s, which serves traditional tapas dishes, and a vegan stall called Las Niñas Veganas – it’s not easy to find vegan or gluten-free food in Cádiz, so this is special.
The courgette croquettes are delicious. Although Casa Manteca is probably Cádiz’s most famous restaurant, no gaditanos (people from Cádiz) really go there any more because it’s too crowded. We might head to Cumbres Mayores, in the north-east of the old town, which has just as much history and atmosphere and good-quality ingredients. The best thing to order is chicharrónnes (fried pork skin).
Five minutes’ walk from there, Ultramarinos Bar El Veedor is part deli, part cafe, and my favourite place to buy cold meats, cheese, anchovies and olives to take away or eat at the bar with a sherry.
Inspiration
For the past four months I have been working at La Cueva Del Pájaro Azul, the city’s most recent archaeological site. We have discovered a port and a shipyard that date back to Phoenician times – around the third century BC. These underground chambers then had a second life in the 1960s as one of the most famous flamenco clubs in Spain: the Blue Bird Cave. Taking a tour really gives you a perspective on how Cádiz is one of the oldest cities in Europe.
For something more contemporary, I would head to Espacio Ecco. This art gallery in a former barracks has some great modern pieces and a good collection of street art and paintings that came out of the La Movida movement in the 1970s.
Neighbourhood
Many visitors to Cádiz don’t make it beyond the old city walls, but I really recommend a visit to Paseo Marítimo. This smart neighbourhood is on the Playa de la Victoria beach and is a really nice place for an evening walk, maybe stopping at some of the small shops and independent boutiques, then heading to one of the beach bars for a drink. There are also some really excellent restaurants here, such as Nahu Beach and Arsenio Manila. For something more down to earth, head to the eastern side of the city, overlooking the Bay of Cádiz and the José León de Carranza Bridge. There are amazing views of the port with all its ships. It’s a surprisingly peaceful, calm place: don’t miss the little seafood shack at the end of the dock called Viento de Levante. Locals love it.
Green space
La Alameda Apodaca, a park on the north side of the city, is very romantic, with lots of cobbled winding paths, fountains, trees and statues. The best time to go is just before dark, when you can watch the lamps come on as the sun sinks into the sea. If you’re in the new part of town, Varela Gardens is very popular and historically interesting: this is where many Phoenician and Roman cemeteries were discovered, and you can still spot a few burial mounds.
Nightlife
Circo Duende is where I always head for a beer. It’s in the artiest area of the city and has a bohemian feel and live music. For something a little fancier, you don’t need to be staying at the Alquimia Hotel or the Cathedral Hotel to have drinks on their terraces; both have amazing views of the city. In La Alameda, either La Colonial or El Kioskito de la Alameda are beautiful spots for a cocktail, with outdoor seating right next to the gardens and the sea. For dancing, Ykebana in Paseo Marítimo is always full of locals and has loud music until the early hours.
Stay
Many of the city’s grandest old mansions have been converted into apartments for short-term rentals. One of my favourites is Candelaria10 (from £105 a night for two), which is in a former monastery on one of Cádiz’s prettiest squares.
Pilar Gil is a ballet dancer, archaeologist and art historian who has lived in Cádiz for 23 years
