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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Robin McKelvie

A Dracula-themed walk to a great pub: Kilmarnock Arms, Cruden Bay

Slains Castle contains an octagonal hall that could be the source for the octagonal room in Dracula.
Slains Castle contains an octagonal hall that could be the source for the octagonal room in Dracula. Photograph: Scott Cameron Baxter

‘And here one day, to the sound of the sea on the Scottish shore, Count Dracula made his entry,” wrote Bram Stoker biographer Harry Ludlam.

Dracula’s creator had never been to Transylvania when he fled London for the bracing North Sea wilds of Cruden Bay in the twilight of the Victorian era. In Aberdeenshire, Stoker finally found Dracula’s world of raging sea and glowering sky – a world of fisherfolk whose pagan beliefs the railway had yet to dim. On this shipwreck-strewn coast, where the mournful cries of seals haunt the night, Count Dracula emerged undead from the granite cliffs of Slains Castle.

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