Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Andrey Kurkov

‘A city like a book’: how Lviv’s hippy spirit is surviving Russia’s invasion

Virmenka cafe in Lviv
‘These “suspended” coffees are hanging in the air waiting for the person to come and drink them’ … Virmenka cafe in Lviv. Photograph: Ihor Kuternoha/picfair

Two dozen cats live and work in the cafe at 1A General Grigorenko Street, in Lviv. They “work” as psychotherapists, bringing relief to customers stressed out by the war. People go there to drink coffee, eat cake and pet the cats. The cafe stays open even when a missile attack has caused power cuts throughout the city. Alik Olisevich sometimes goes along to make sure that the cats themselves are keeping calm.

Olisevich is Lviv’s best-known – and possibly oldest – hippy, and the keeper of the city’s hippy movement archive. He can most often be found in the Virmenka cafe in the Armenian quarter of the old town, an institution that has been operating since the 1970s central to Lviv’s hippy history. Local students occasionally pop in to see the old-timers – hippies, and writers who seem to have been sitting there since the place opened more than 40 years ago.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.