Vitamin C is beloved for its brightening powers and exfoliation, but like with all active and hard-working ingredients, knowing how to use it - and thus, how not to use vitamin C - is crucial to achieving glowing results...
If you're someone who is chasing radiance or looking to reduce the appearance of dark spots and fine lines, the best vitamin C serums have no doubt crossed your radar. The active, also known as ascorbic acid is touted for its ability to protect the skin from environmental aggressors (like sunlight and pollution), whilst simultaneously brightening the complexion, making it a true giant in the skincare space. That said, it's not without its challenges.
Like its fellow exfoliators, there are a few vitamin C mistakes to avoid, especially when it comes to application, specifically. So to that end, we've quizzed the skincare experts on what not to do with it - to ensure you're getting the most out of your radiance-boosting products...
How not to use vitamin c, according to the experts
If you're new to vitamin C, it's good to know that it's available in many forms from concentrated serum treatments to brightening eye creams. But like with the best retinol creams and serums, it's important to get clued in on its compatibility with other ingredients - and the things to avoid when using.
For instance, if you have sensitive skin, knowing exactly how to use vitamin C for sensitive skin is key to avoiding irritation. Thus, we've asked dermatologists and skincare experts to break down what not to do, in terms of application...
1. Don't apply it too close to the eyes
Unless you're using a specifically designed vitamin C eye cream or eye serum, Dr Magnus Lynch, Consultant Dermatologist and Surgeon says to: "Apply Vitamin C sparingly around the delicate eye area to prevent irritation."
A good and gentle trick when applying your eye products is to use the pad of your ring finger, to dot and carefully press the formula in - this helps to avoid tugging and irritating the skin.
2. Don't apply it with exfoliating acids
A common theme - and faux pas - with skincare application is knowing what ingredients pair well together.
Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C for instance, are okay to use in tandem, however, this isn't the case with all skincare ingredients and the latter. Indeed, Dr Lynch advises to, "avoid combining it with exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs simultaneously to prevent over-exfoliation."
3. Don't apply it on broken or irritated skin
Dr Mahsa Saleki, Aesthetic Doctor and founder of SAS Aesthetics warns to avoid, "using vitamin C on irritated or broken skin, " and again reiterates to be cautious around delicate areas like the eyelids.
4. Don't use it alongside retinol
Dr Lynch also advises avoiding mixing vitamin C with other products containing retinol or benzoyl peroxide, "as this can cause irritation and decrease efficacy."
Dr Saleki seconds this and adds that combining it with retinol and benzoyl peroxide, "can destabilise vitamin C and diminish its effectiveness. Maintaining the stability and potency of vitamin C ensures its optimal performance, so avoiding these combinations helps preserve its benefits for healthier, brighter skin. I’d advise using Vitamin C in the morning and then retinol at night before bed."
The exception to this is treatments that have been specifically formulated to include both ingredients, like Beauty Pie's Super Retinol + Vitamin C Night Renewal Moisturiser, which features Encapsulated retinol and vitamin C - along with a myriad of other skin-loving ingredients.
5. Don't apply too much - or rub the skin
Another misstep to avoid is applying too much vitamin C and too often. Dr Saleki says: "Applying too much or too frequently can lead to discomfort and may compromise results."
Careful and intentional application is also key (with all of your skincare staples, not just vitamin C) as Dr Saleki notes, "Gentle application without excessive rubbing or massaging helps prevent skin irritation and ensures the optimal absorption of vitamin C for maximum benefit. It's also best to use Vitamin C in the morning, before applying sunscreen."
Our go-to Vitamin C serums and creams
If you're looking to incorporate vitamin C into you're routine, we've rounded up a few popular options, from the likes of Beauty Pie, Ole Henriksen and La Roche-Posay...
RRP: £45
Touted as one of the best La Roche-Posay products on the market, this serum combines vitamin C with hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid and thermal spa water to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and texture, whilst also hydrating the skin, to leave it plump and more radiant.
RRP: £38
This lightweight eye cream works to enhance radiance and reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines. It features light-reflecting yellow minerals which help to brighten the undereye, whilst also hydrating the delicate skin.
RRP: £23.50 member price/ £100 non-member price
For those seeking a potent vitamin c serum, this one from Beauty Pie features 15% stable vitamin C, which is described as being 'sandwiched' with Ferulic Acid and Tranexamic Acid to brighten the complexion and combat dull, uneven and damaged skin.
