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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
John Brunton

Zoning in on Ménilmontant, Paris: ‘bohemian, arty and off the tourist trail’

Entrance to a metro station in Paris.
Père-Lachaise metro station entrance on Boulevard de Ménilmontant. Photograph: Alan Wilson/Alamy

Why go now

On a hill that rises up between Belleville’s Chinatown and Père-Lachaise cemetery, Ménilmontant was once a rural hamlet with vines and farms, before becoming more industrial in the 19th century. The quartier boasts a united, colourful community whose working-class Parisian roots have long been integrated with a strong north African diaspora. Bohemian, arty and socially committed, it remains off the tourist trail with no notable museums or monuments; it’s just a genuinely Parisian neighbourhood. The locals were bemused to learn that Time Out made Ménilmontant one of its World’s Coolest Neighbourhoods for 2025, though tourists who do venture here to discover a glimpse of a fast-disappearing Paris are sure of a warm welcome.

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