Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Alex Needham

‘You’re not getting any’ – the secret sexual signals in the Bloomsbury Group’s clothes

‘I’ve been given free rein’ … author Charlie Porter at Charleston, the group’s countryside HQ.
‘I’ve been given free rein’ … author Charlie Porter at Charleston, the group’s countryside HQ. Photograph: Sarah Lee/The Guardian

It was recently called the most fashionable house in England, but on Tuesdays Charleston is closed to visitors and so blissfully empty. In a garden at the peak of its bloom this hot August morning, bees investigate the flowers and apple trees, while ducks cool their feathers in the lake. The Bloomsbury Group used this farmhouse in East Sussex as its countryside HQ for about 60 years, and since the members believed art and life should be thoroughly integrated, their idiosyncratic touches are everywhere. There is a picture on an easel of a naked man with a six-pack painted by Duncan Grant; yellow circles on a wardrobe decorated by Vanessa Bell; a walled garden designed by their fellow artist Roger Fry. Meanwhile, in the kitchen, eccentric pottery shades cover the lights; upstairs in the attic, there is a door frame covered in patterns painted by Bell; and beyond, windows that offer majestic views of the South Downs.

The fashion journalist Charlie Porter has spent much of the past two years here, researching an exhibition and a book. Both are called Bring No Clothes, after Virginia Woolf’s instruction to visitors to leave their starched crinolines, whalebone corsets and medals at home, since the rejection of formal attire was part of Bloomsbury’s revolutionary lifestyle. “I’ve always wanted to look at what happened at the moment clothing went from Victorian cinched and military dress to what you would call modern,” Porter says. “If you look at that moment, what can we learn about the roots of clothing today?”

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.