Six or more course menus have become the default offering from our most ambitious and talented chefs and I understand why - they want to use the best of stuff to create a coherent meal where every element is in harmony.
I get that - and I'm not complaining about having to eat multiple exquisite dishes for a living. It's just that long, fancy, spendy dinners do not fit easily into most of our lives.
When we are not celebrating a birthday with a zero at the end or asking someone to marry us, we don't have the time or budget to allow a chef to let off all the fireworks.
