There was a time when you’d only ever write about what to drink with a barbecue in the summer, as if we Brits never had barbecues in any other season. But now that many appliances are more like outdoor ovens, we need to justify the cost by using them year-round, even when it’s chucking it down outside (which, of course, is perfectly likely on a bank holiday weekend).
It also calls for a bit of a rethink about what kind of wine to serve with them. Barbecue no longer necessarily means burgers, wings and sweet-sticky ribs. Anything that’s cooked over coals now qualifies. Think fresh sardines on a beach picnic. Or some smoky aubergines as part of a Middle Eastern feast. Or spicy, yoghurt-marinated kebabs and a couple of salads. And they’re all as likely to prompt a white, rosé or orange wine as a red one.