They’re sparkling in the distance, dozens of them, twinkling and mesmerising. But they’re not in the sky. These lights are in fact an agglomeration of caiman eyes, glowing in the dark as they watch us from the comfort of their lagoon.
We’re in a wide, open part of already vast Argentina. Forget Pampa or Patagonia; we’re in the Iberá Wetlands in northeastern Corrientes province, not far from the border with Paraguay. An abundant land, rich in vegetation and wildlife, this wasn’t always the case. Until recently, extinction and scarcity were associated with this region.
