Sitting almost completely alone at the top of the 577 steps up to the Bom Jesus hilltop sanctuary, I took a moment to absorb the details. The sun was setting over the Portuguese city of Braga to the west, casting a golden light from Monte das Caldas and illuminating the delicate Baroque façade of the Unesco-listed Bom Jesus De Monte, which towers 400 metres high. The sound of water falling from an imperial eagle-topped fountain mingled with the chirrups of swallows who swooped and dived in the final embers of daylight. This is one of the top attractions in Braga, and I sat with just my thoughts for company, only three other people in sight.
Braga is the lesser-known of Portugal’s three foremost cities, foregoing top billing to Lisbon and Porto. Whilst these are both beautiful cities, in recent years they have seen tourist numbers soar, with Lisbon welcoming 8.8 million visitors in 2024 and Porto having nearly 6 million in the same period. It can be difficult to find a table to find a spot for a quiet coffee or to take a good picture without a crowd in front of you. So, consider Braga as the perfect alternative. Last year, the city attracted 639,000 visitors.
