Buying your wine from Aldi and Lidl is a bit of a badge of honour these days – an indication that you’re confident enough to recognise good value and not to worry that people might judge you. Of the two, I find Lidl more interesting for its bi-monthly “Wine Tour”, a WIGIG (when it’s gone, it’s gone) range of wines that are bought in for a specific period.
The attraction, of course, is the keen pricing, which is made possible by a huge buying operation based in Germany that serves 30 countries throughout Europe and beyond. The way it works in the UK is that the selection is vetted by a panel of Masters of Wine – namely, Ed Adams, Richard Bampfield and Caroline Gilby, though it’s Bampfield’s name that appears on the resulting scores. Frankly, though, I would take those with a pinch of salt, because, in common with most international wine competitions, they occupy a narrow range from about 82 to 92, and are awarded without reference to the price of the wine. You might be happier, for instance, with an 84-point £5.49 wine than an 88-point one at £13.99.
It used to be the case that Lidl’s Wine Tour range was better value than its core range, which is in stock all the time, but that’s not invariably the case any more. In fact, the latest selection, which is largely new-world wines, is a touch pricier. And I also think the basic range has improved. I was particularly struck by the 13% Chianti DOCG Riserva 2019, which, at £5.99, is brilliant value and perfect for a Friday night pizza. (Check the vintage on the shelf, because there still seems to be some 2015s around.)
The highlight of the latest selection, in my view, is the Outlook Bay range from New Zealand. The two pinots are particularly good. I’ve gone for the Otago in today’s pick, but if you prefer a slightly lighter, more burgundian style, the Outlook Bay Reserve Pinot Noir 2020 (£9.99, 13%), from Marlborough, might be a better bet.
There are also some good South African options: two very smartly labelled and astonishingly good-value Vis a Vis blends, say, and a cracking sauvignon blanc (£7.99, 13%) from Stellenbosch – not a region you normally look to for sauvignon, and more like a white bordeaux than that typical gooseberry, citrus and passionfruit character you find in New Zealand. It’s seriously impressive, though, especially for £7.99, and the bottle looks the part, too.
A final note of caution: I’ve been told that all these wines are available in all branches, but they do tend to sell out quickly, so I’d stock up while (and if) you can.
The pick of the latest Lidl range
Vis a Vis Chardonnay Chenin Blanc Viognier 2021 £6.99, £14%. Smartly labelled, rich, buttery white that would be great with autumn squash. The £7.99 red is a cracker, too.
The Second Fleet Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot 2020 £7.49, 13.5%. An elegant, smooth, blackcurranty bordeaux blend from Australia’s Coonawarra region.
Carmenère Gran Reserva 2020 £7.49, 14.5%. Big, rich, lush Chilean red with a herby edge. Would make a great match for rogan josh or other lamb curries.
Outlook Bay Pinot Noir 2020 £9.99, 12.5%. Central Otago pinot is normally twice this price, so this is a great deal. Big, rich and sweet-fruited.
Duck Point Blanc de Blanc £9.99, 12%. Not as cheap as prosecco, and quite a bit drier, but a classy-looking and -tasting fizz.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
