It's 4:30pm on a balmy June evening in Kibuye, a small city along Rwanda's largest lake. From the coves of lush green hills, traditional wooden boats with bent fishing rod-like arches on either end are starting to emerge in groups of threes. The movement of their oars is synchronised, dancing to the rhythm of songs and whistles performed by the captain.
"They are singing to motivate themselves," my guide Honore shouts. His voice is barely audible over the loud chanting as we drift further towards the horizon. The fishermen will stay on the water all night to catch sambaza, tiny sardine-like fish endemic to the lake, before heading back to the shore before dawn.
