It's 4:30pm on a balmy June evening in Kibuye, a small city along Rwanda's largest lake. From the coves of lush green hills, traditional wooden boats with bent fishing rod-like arches on either end are starting to emerge in groups of threes. The movement of their oars is synchronised, dancing to the rhythm of songs and whistles performed by the captain.
"They are singing to motivate themselves," my guide Honore shouts. His voice is barely audible over the loud chanting as we drift further towards the horizon. The fishermen will stay on the water all night to catch sambaza, tiny sardine-like fish endemic to the lake, before heading back to the shore before dawn.
Lake Kivu, located between the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Rwanda, is one of the smallest African Great Lakes formed by volcanic activity about one-five million years ago. Each night fishermen and women from both sides brave the cold and rain to collect large volumes of fish to sell to cooperatives.
"They catch anything between 5 to 50 kilograms daily, depending on the season," Honore says as the men prepare to cast their nets. First, the ten-strong crew spread the boats out by extending the bamboos. Three men on one boat then drop the net 100 meters deep while the others pull from all sides to hold it into position. Releasing and pulling the heavy mesh requires muscle power and balance.
Just before the skies turn dark, the captain starts pumping gas into lanterns and hangs them on either side of the boat. “The light and smoke from them help attract the sambaza.” Honore says pointing at the hissing lamp. With the trap laid, the fishermen feast on some cassava and beans accompanied by traditional sorghum and banana wine. They pull up the net thrice throughout the night before gathering it for the final time at 4 am.
Fishing is a primary source of income for many living on the shores, and it doesn’t come without challenges. According to Institute for Security Studies, Lake Kivu has seen a 28% decline in fish production over the past two years due to illegal practices using destructive equipment. There is growing concern that this could wipe out entire species in an ecosystem.
Along the 90km-long edge of the lake, rolling hills lend themselves perfectly to quaint beaches, resorts, and ecotourism initiatives like Kinunu Guest House. The plantation and cooperative, staffed entirely by locals, cultivate and package homegrown Boneza coffee. The two-hour tour takes you through the farm, where they manually pick the beans, and the factory where they process it before finally tasting the brew prepared in traditional Rwandan style.
Kinunu is also a base for hikers and mountain bikers braving the Congo Nile Trail stretching 141 miles from Rabavu in the north to Cyangugu in the south. Completing the entire trail takes roughly ten days on foot and five days by bike, but you can tailor this to fit your itinerary. Along the rugged route, you'll traverse through small villages, climb steep hills and wake up on the shores of this island-studded lake teeming with endemic sea life.
Karongi, where we're staying, is close to some of the more popular uninhabited archipelagos. Napolean Island, named after the French emperor because its shape resembled his hat, attracts hikers looking to soak up the views from 100 meters and admire the 40,000 fruit bats that reside here. Next door on Monkey Island, the vervet monkeys are so accustomed to seeing humans that they jump into your boat and hunt for food without hesitation. On a good day, you could also see cows treading water to and from Peace Island, where they head to graze - the phenomenon referred to as 'swimming cows'.
The only way to get to these islands is on a traditional boat. Several tour companies offer half and full-day island-hopping excursions, including kayaking and canoeing packages. On the coast, the roads in and around Kibuye are delightfully wide and traffic-free, perfect for bikers. Hire a two-wheeler and paddle at your own pace whilst enjoying the lake view from varying altitudes. The fishing village and town centre are all contained within a mile and depict perfectly the simplicity of life here.
Along one of the winding roads of Kibuye is the newly opened Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel. With just 18 suites and one presidential quarter, it's an intimate hideaway that offers complete escape and privacy. An open terrace laden with loungers is at the heart of the property, look down to manicured gardens, the open bar, a helipad and the magical Lake Kivu.
The rooms are spacious, modern and decorated in neutral tones taking nothing away from the 180-degree majestic views on the other side of the balcony. You could spend hours watching life on the lake throughout the day and get front-row seats to the most seductive sunsets. Cleo has everything one needs to unwind: a pool, a spa, a fire pit for when it gets chilly and a bartender with excellent cocktail-making skills.
Most ingredients for the kitchen come from a garden within the premises. "We want to offer our guests a farm-to-table gastronomy experience. The idea is to use locally grown and sourced material, from fish and meat to fruit and veg," head chef Justine tells me. His pride and passion are evident in the carefully-curated dishes he presents. There is a different set menu each night, which you can pair with your favourite wine while watching the glowing lanterns from the traditional Rwandan fishing boats. As for the sambaza, it’s available at all restaurants in the region, consumed battered, fried and whole with a dash of herb sauce.
Information
RwandAir is the only airline offering direct flights from UK–Rwanda. Book via rwandair.com or call +44 (0) 1293874922
Rooms at Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel start from £650 per night including breakfast. The friendly hotel staff can arrange activities like kayaking, island-hopping trips and coffee excursions.
Visit Rwanda for more ideas on what to see and do in the country
