
We're joined for afternoon tea by a warthog munching on grass fewer than two metres from the patio of our double-storey cottage on the fringes of the Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe. He lifts his head to glance, then carries on with his business. It's not the first time he's seen giddy tourists eager to capture the intimate encounter on their phones, and it won’t be the last.
Our week-long adventure to explore the waterfall from both sides of the border starts at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, a locally owned eco-lodge overlooking a vast expanse of acacia trees and mopane woodlands that provides a safe space for elephants, impalas, buffaloes, and zebras to roam freely, uninterrupted by fences or barbed wires.