LOS ANGELES – Comedian Fred Allen once described the City of Angels as a nice place to live if you happen to be an orange.
But it’s a great place to visit – especially when there’s a golf tournament going on nearby. In this case, the 123rd U.S. Open at Los Angeles Country Club’s North Course located at the juncture of Beverly Hills, Westwood and Century City.
Work trips to the Genesis Invitational at Riviera Country Club in Pacific Palisades have given me a good excuse to explore Tinseltown and with the U.S. Open returning there for the first time since 1948 I’ve compiled a list of favorites – some of my own and some recommended by my local peeps in the area.
Where to stay
I like to stay with friends who used to live in Brentwood and now are in Playa Vista but if I’m staying at a hotel I tend to set up shop in Santa Monica. When I think of the perfect beach town, Santa Monica is it. Venice (to the south) has its countercultural charms, and Malibu (up north) is celebrity central, but only Santa Monica feels homey. Though only five miles or so from the heart of Los Angeles, it feels a world away from the urban sprawl, the clogged freeways and the downtown traffic jams that make a visit to this part of Southern California often seem so maddening.
The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows sits atop a bluff overlooking Santa Monica Bay on a lushly landscaped block at the western end of Wilshire Boulevard at Ocean Avenue. It was once the mansion of John P. Jones, a U.S. senator and one of the founders of Santa Monica. Jones named his home “Miramar,” and a fig tree his wife planted in its front yard in 1889 still stands in the hotel’s courtyard.
The hotel opened in 1921 and soon became a getaway for movie stars and other celebrities. Greta Garbo once lived there and Presidents have stayed here over the years. This is a popular spot for PGA Tour stars during the Genesis Invitational at Riviera Country Club in Pacific Palisades.
It’s pricey but if you can afford it, the bungalows are tough to beat with a Malibu beach house meets “modern surfer” feel, and feature natural, midcentury modern wood furniture; geometric wall coverings; and pops of bright, beachy color.
Also in walking distance to the Santa Monica Pier is the Loews Hotel, which has a terrific pool area and scenic views from most of the rooms.
Closer to LACC is the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which is a driver-9-iron away from LACC, and offers views of the course to the Santa Monica Mountains and Pacific beyond. Dine at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Rooftop by JG.
Where to eat
This list has to begin with In-n-Out since that’s usually my first and last stop on any west coast excursion. Double-double animal style for this New York native and Floridian transplant is a must whenever I can get it but it’s not the only delicious fast-food treats.
Pink’s Hot Dogs, a Hollywood legend since 1939, has long lines at its roadside spot for a reason. It’s a bit out of the way if you’re going to be at the Open but worth your time. And the other burger spot to hit is Apple Pan, an old school burger joint with to-die-for apple and banana pies.
For the carnivores seeking a classic steak – or old fashioned favorites like Calf’s Liver or Lamb Kidneys – with a side of motion picture and literary history, my pal Travelin’ Joe Passov suggests feasting on the Musso & Frank Grill experience in Hollywood. A-listers from Humphrey Bogart to Marilyn Monroe to F. Scott Fitzgerald were among the regulars at this century-old institution.
If you’re billing the meal to the company expense account, you also can’t go wrong at Mastro’s Ocean Club right on Malibu Beach – where the views kill – but the locals will tell you Mastro’s in Beverly Hills has the better food. Crustacean in Beverly Hills is the go-to for seafood with an Asian fusion twist.
On a @GeoffShac rec I stopped here today leaving LACC. If you’re coming to LA, do it. 10 minutes from the golf course. pic.twitter.com/yEA2wcrMyF
— Gary Williams (@Garywilliams1Up) June 11, 2023
The best ramen in the city can be found at Tatsu Ramen on Sawtelle, about 10 minutes from where the pros will be teeing it up.
Try Stella Bara for pizza and Slab for barbecue, one of the many cute restaurants in Melrose, and Violet L.A., for a Californian take on a French bistro in Westwood. The Westfield Century City Mall, an outdoor mall where many fans will be parking, is across the street from LACC’s South Course and the food is top notch: depending on what you’re in the mood for there’s Din Tai Fung to Eataly and a Del Friscos Double Eagle Steakhouse.
If you’re headed to the Dodger game, there’s one more oldie-but-goodie to check out: Philippe’s “French Dipped Sandwich” is where the classic sandwich was invented in 1918. It’s still the specialty of the house and the reason why customers stand in line, shuffle their feet in the sawdust on the floor, order a twice-dipped beef with cole slaw and potato salad, both delicious, on the side. Then slather the sandwich in the house’s hot mustard and dig in. Phillippe’s had been at its current location on Alameda since 1951.
If you want to go to the best whiskey bar, head to Neat on Pico. Its chill vibe and killer selection will make any golf fan feel at home.
The Fairmont Miramar has dining options that are a no-brainer if you’re staying there and worth seeking out if you’re not. Soko, an 8-seat sushi bar helmed by veteran Sushi Chef Masa Shimakawa, is a tribute to the humble origins of sushi with SoCal sensibilities. The name ‘Soko’ means ‘storeroom’ which is a literal interpretation, given that Soko Sushi is tucked away in a secluded corner of the hotel’s main-floor lobby.
Fig Restaurant features farm-to-table cuisine with heritage-inspired dishes, shareable plates, and seasonal menus. Whether breakfast or dinner, the food was delicious. The lobby also was hopping when I enjoyed some pre-dinner drinks there. The huge Moreton Bay fig tree, from which the restaurant gets its name, will make you feel like climbing.
In West Hollywood, chef Michael Cimarusti, winner of the 2019 James Berard ‘Best Chef: West’ award, pays homage at Connie & Ted’s to his grandparents and the simple, honest, cooking of a New England dockside seafood outpost transplanted to Santa Monica Boulevard.
Last but not least, there’s Providence in Hollywood. This two Michelin-star favorite is packed every night with their ever-popular and constantly evolving chef’s tasting menus (including a new vegetarian option).
What to do
Get some exercise making birdies of your own at Rancho Park or window-shopping Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Runyon Canyon in the middle of the Hollywood area offers great views and everything from challenging hikes to easy walks. Santa Monica Pier with its vest-pocket amusement park and its old-fashioned Ferris wheel offers spectacular views of the coastline. Greet the morning with a leisurely walk along the Santa Monica Pier – before the crowds have arrived, before the T-shirt hawkers have taken up their places, before the souvenir shops and fast-food restaurants have opened for business.
If you laugh hard enough, it’s aerobic, so burn off your dinner at the Laugh Factory on Sunset Boulevard, just over the Beverly Hills city line in West Hollywood. Its landmark building once served as offices for the Marx Brothers. Weekend shows have been known to draw the likes of Chris Rock, Kathy Griffin and Adam Sandler.
There’s much to explore in Westwood, a collection of low-slung Spanish Revival buildings that went up in the 1920s. Today it is an affluent, youthful area, the site of UCLA’s campus as well as a hub for the Persian community in L.A.
The Dodgers are in town, making for a great day-night doubleheader of golf and baseball. Built in 1962 for the Brooklyn team which had moved west in 1958, Chavez Ravine has a cantilevered design for an unobstructed view of the action on the field.
From the stadium there are equally impressive panoramic views of the city. To the south is downtown L.A. and to the north and east are the San Gabriel Mountains. The stadium underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation in 2008. Don’t forget to have a Dodger Dog or three.
A spectacular art collection, stunning architecture, and gorgeous gardens combine with a hilltop location to create one of LA’s finest cultural destinations. The Getty Center opened in 1997 on an isolated hilltop near the western end of Sunset Boulevard; it houses an array of exquisite European art.
J Paul Getty made his fortune in the oil business and became an ardent collector of art.
Situated amid the wild beauty of the Santa Monica mountains, the Getty Center houses hundreds of pre-20th century paintings, drawings, sculptures and decorative arts. A tram brings visitors from the parking area to the complex, many of whom come simply to see the gardens and the views. The museum has a tall, airy foyer that opens onto a central courtyard, from which radiate five pavilions. From afar, it looks like a village on a Greek island; up close, it feels like a multi-deck ocean liner is how R.W. Apple Jr. of the New York Times once described it.
