It would be fair to say that in recent years, small plate dining has suffered a slight dip in its popularity, as the qualities that once disarmed diners - the charm of earthenware plates and the novelty of stripped back menus - slowly dissipated, giving way to weary eyerolls. That’s not to say the format is dead, far from it, it just has more of a job convincing people that it's the way they should choose to spend their hard earned cash.
In some ways the debate around small plates is one of open mindedness. Yes, these dishes that sit somewhere between a starter and a main - and are best served in a group of similarly sized dishes shared amongst friends - might make us feel like we’re being short-changed, but then really what criteria are we judging a good meal by? The size of the portions, the quality of the food, or the experience itself?
Additionally, the model is one, especially in the current climate, that makes more financial sense for restaurants, where rents are rising and the cost of good quality ingredients is skyrocketing. Rather more romantically, the format also gives new restaurants the chance to experiment with different dishes and exhibit some creative flair, without being confined to a static and unimaginative three-course offering.
