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International Business Times
International Business Times
Business
Alex Rivers

When 'Treat Yourself' Beauty Started Doing The Math

For years, the unofficial rule of beauty spending was that small indulgences survive almost any economy. A blowout, a gel manicure, a lash refill: cheap enough to feel harmless, expensive enough to feel like a treat. Economists even gave the pattern a name, the lipstick effect, the idea that shoppers trade down on big purchases but keep spending on small ones that make them feel good.

That rule is starting to bend. Beauty executives surveyed by McKinsey for 2026 named consumer scrutiny of value, not inflation or competition, as the single biggest risk facing the industry, and most expect future growth to come from somewhere other than price increases. The same shift shows up in how people talk about spending. One widely cited industry figure puts the share of U.S. consumers who now prefer "dupes," cheaper alternatives to pricier products, at 56 percent. Gen Z in particular has stopped treating "affordable" as a compromise and started treating it as proof of being a smart shopper. Market researchers describe this less as belt-tightening than as a more deliberate kind of shopping, with the same consumer mixing premium pieces and cheaper substitutes within a single routine rather than abandoning either tier outright.

Eyelashes are a small but telling example of where that lands. A classic set of lash extensions in the U.S. typically runs $100 to $200, and upkeep means a refill every two to three weeks for as long as someone wants to keep the look, which most price guides now describe as closer to a monthly subscription than a one-time purchase. Add it up over a year and the number lands somewhere between $1,500 and $2,500, depending on city and style. Magnetic lash sets, including ones from brands like WOSADO that are built to be reused for three to six months, do a similar job for a few dollars upfront. That arithmetic helps explain why magnetic formats have moved beyond niche beauty retailers and onto drugstore and mass-market shelves over the past two years, sitting right next to the glue-based originals. The gap isn't really about whether someone wants dramatic lashes. It's about whether they're willing to pay for that look once a month or once a season.

A version of the same logic is showing up across the rest of beauty. In nails, reusable press-on and magnetic systems have been chipping away at the recurring cost of a salon gel manicure. In skincare, the dupe-shopping instinct that used to apply mainly to lipstick and foundation now extends to serums once considered untouchable on price. Fragrance has followed its own version of the arc: a wave of $10-to-$15 body sprays designed to evoke pricier, more recognizable scents has carved out real shelf space next to the originals, on the logic that smelling good doesn't have to come with a designer price tag attached.

None of this means people are spending less on how they look. Beauty has held up better than most discretionary categories through recent stretches of inflation, and forecasters still expect the global market to keep growing through the rest of the decade. What's changed is the math people are willing to do before they spend. The emotional payoff of a polished look used to come bundled with a recurring bill. Increasingly, shoppers want the payoff without the subscription, and the categories figuring out how to deliver that are quietly becoming a more interesting story in beauty than the luxury end ever was. For brands still built around recurring visits or subscriptions, that's a harder shift to absorb than it sounds, since it's the business model itself, not just the marketing, that's being put up for renegotiation.

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