The town of Qaim lies on the border of Iraq and Syria, close to the great Euphrates River. Near the central market, in a spacious building of six rooms and a large hall, Alhan al-Salmani, who has six children and a harrowing history, runs her kitchen, Al-Eiz.
The place is full of women. Twelve are sitting on the ground next to a vast tanoor, a traditional clay oven. On the right, pots full of rice and meat simmer on the fire. The sun’s glow lights the scene, while the smell of kubba – an Iraqi dish of minced meat packed in rice – draws you in. It takes time to prepare kubba and around 200 plates a day are made and sent out.
