The ‘ugly’ shoe has become something of a phenomenon in fashion.
During lockdown, sales of comfortable and practical footwear soared — and it made sense that we wanted shoes that gave us literal support in a time of uncertainty. Yet, sales have continued apace, with more and more styles which champion function over form garnering a loyal following among London’s style set.
Take Birkenstock — owned by luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. It has reached peak popularity, with record sales this summer, meaning it’s predicted to be valued at $8 billion if plans for the company to go public in September go ahead. Meanwhile, Crocs reported record profits in the second quarter of 2023 according to Lyst, and its third collaboration with Palace Skateboards last week is further proof that the rubber clog retains serious fashion kudos.
Both of these ugly shoe-makers have also benefited from the Mattel marketing machine. Crocs created a suitably garish collab to time with the Barbie movie, which sold out in record time. Now, the Classics and platform versions of the shoes with their accompanying Barbie iconography-themed Jibbitz (if you know, you know) command up to double their retail value on eBay.
Meanwhile, Birkenstocks serve as the butt of a joke in the film when Barbie’s feet turn *gasp* flat. Greta Gerwig specifically wrote the brand’s name in the script rather than leaving anything to the imagination of costume designer Jacqueline Durran. A further pair of ‘Stocks — the luxe Big Buckle Arizona kind, in pastel pink, naturally — appears in a closing scene as a symbol of Stereotypical Barbie’s transition to the Real World and acceptance of all of its ugliness.
But becoming prolific in pop culture hasn’t abated Londoners’ love of these once-maligned shoes. We still love to love our ugly shoes, and love to hate the rival brands. Trust me, it’s a source of fierce debate among my Whatsapp group, which separates us into distinctive camps of Team ‘Stock or Team Croc.
Though these two obvious summer contenders have had some rivalry from the sort of ugly shoes usually reserved for autumn and winter — because, if you haven’t noticed, we’re living through one serious washout of a summer. Enter ugly waterproof favourites, like Salomon. These ugly shoes and other emerging favourites like Tabis and Asics are being heavily memed on cult London-centric Instagram satire accounts such as Real Housewives of Clapton.
So, it’s true what they say: you can judge a person by their shoes.
Let’s get to the bottom of how these ugly shoes have put a spell on their devoted wearers, with a deep dive into the power of London’s ‘ugly’ shoes.
The Birkenstock
The history: The ‘Stock is a shoe with serious history. The brand was founded in Germany in 1774, though the Birkenstock came to more closely resemble the shoe we now know in the 1960s, when its sandals with contoured arches were released. The two-strap Arizona was created in the 1970s, causing the brand’s popularity to explode, and in 2002 the Boston Clog was born. But when did they gain the cool-factor? We can attribute that to the Noughties normcore trend, which put them firmly in the spotlight. They’ve since had the A-list seal of approval from fans including the Olsens, Kendall Jenner and Tracee Ellis Ross.
The tribe: As the figures infer, a helluva lot of people own a pair of ‘Stocks, and the classic Arizona variety is just as likely to be the shoe of choice for a band tee-wearing Dad in Walthamstow grabbing his weekend flat white, as they are for the women boarding a plane at Heathrow in search of a Hot Girl Summer. Then there’s the collab ‘Stocks. Jil Sander ‘Stocks are a staple for those giving a nod to the stealth wealth trend. Meanwhile, the Boston clog and its hard-wearing cousin the Tokio, are enjoying cult status thanks to those seduced by the fashion credentials of The Bear — and the chefcore trend it has spawned. Extra points for pairing them with socks.
Crocs
The history: The waterproof Croc was first created in 2002 as a boat shoe, and soon became a staple for gardeners and small children. However, their undeniably comfy soles and fashion’s love of irony have helped propel them to cult status. In the late 2010s, they caught on with celebrities and influencers, and spawned collabs with everyone from Christopher Kane and Balenciaga to Barbie. They’ve even appeared on the Grammys red carpet thanks to Questlove and Justin Bieber, and Lil Nas X is the brand’s new ambassador.
The tribe? With two versatile modes: relaxed and sports, their devotees will argue they’re a London shoe through and through. Walking the dog on Peckham Rye? Flip up the strap on your Hiker Croc and go. Need something to hold your can in the park? Croc lovers are laughing. Hungover and dashing to whichever London Fields pub isn’t packed to the rafters in the rain? Just plug your Croc holes with your Jibbitz collection so your feet don’t get wet. Fun tracksuits and a slogan cap are the natural ‘fit to accompany Crocs, especially the platform kind.
Salomon
The history: The brand started as a French skiwear label in the late 1940s, and began making hiking footwear in the 1990s. By the Noughties, it had expanded into trail running shoes. But when did it become an East London staple? We can trace it back to when sneakerheads began looking for technical, bold kicks that were more under the radar after lockdown — a hangover of the newfound love of practical shoes. It led to a slew of collabs with the likes of Dover Street Market and New York-based Sandy Liang.
The tribe: As well as being up to serious mileage, the popular XT-Wings shoes don’t require lacing, so they’re a dream for boys or girls on the go. They’re feted by fashion lovers who like to club or have a relentless festival schedule, because they’re impervious to muddy fields and sticky floors. Just wipe them clean and carry on! Usually worn with an equally ugly-cool outdoor classic such as a Haglöfs waterproof, or some Tokyo-designed waterproof trews at festivals, and with cycling shorts and Speed sunglasses for the club. You’ll probably spot the slip-on RX Moc 3.0 s at the pub paired with something a little incongruous like an openwork knitted dress.
Ready to choose your tribe? Here’s a selection of the practical summer shoes we love — and love to hate — to shop now.
Saloman XT-6 Mindful Mesh trainers, £160, Matches
Birkenstock Arizona Big Buckle sandal, £113, Amazon
Echo clog, £64.99, Crocs
The breakthrough shoes
Blue shoe, £131, Tabi Footwear
Suicoke MOTO-run, £105, Flannels
Gel-Nimbus 9, £155, Asics
