This Christmas, inspiration comes at you from all angles.
Every chef has a recipe for turkey or a turkey alternative; every wine expert tells you of some ever less affordable bottle to buy to better accompany any range of festive offerings; every bartender has this year's most festive martini, if there is such a thing.
So while the plentiful lists of top tips this Christmastime are readily available, the Going Out team is shedding some light on what we’re up to this holiday season.
From what’s on the table during the big day itself to what we’re drinking on Christmas eve, this is the Going Out team’s guide to what we’re eating and drinking this Christmas.
David Ellis
As ever, there are various “Christmas days”; the big day itself, yes, but preambles as well. Confit duck in a fig sauce is the main for celebrations with Twiggy. Duck, I think, might be the perfect festive poultry. I get mine from the excellent Maida Vale branch of Provenance Village Butcher (provenancebutcher.com); they are helpful, reliable, and often will chuck in something for the dog. For vegetables and spices and treats that I can’t afford but still indulge in, I go to the All Greens (allgreens.co.uk) across the road. Both have branches across the city, and both run reliable delivery services. To drink? Ruinart Blanc de Blanc (ruinart.com) and a 2014 Margaux (1er Grand Cru Classé, naturally). This was an extremely thoughtful engagement gift from restaurateur Samyukta Nair.
On the big day? Turkey and a ham; mum’s a traditionalist. I’ll go for Chapel Down (chapeldown.com) in the morning, to go with the salmon. Later, for something with pud, if it isn’t sherry time or even a muscat, I’ll go with Nyetimber’s Cuvee Chérie Demi-Sec (nyetimber.com), which has an extraordinary flavour and a sweetness to it I find appealing. If I’m on the martinis later, gin is likely to be Papa Salt (papasaltgin.com) or No 3 (no3gin.com) with El Bandarra vermouth (elbandarra.com). Afterwards, brandy; this year I was sent some Burnt Faith and have been buying it ever since (burntfaith.com). I like that there’s a British brandy on the market, and that its flavour is so distinct. With Punt e Mes it makes a stunning brandy Manhattan. And then I think it may well be time to run dry for a few days till NYE. Getting old’s a bugger, isn’t it?
Josh Barrie
Our household Champagne is Veuve Clicquot (veuveclicquot.com) but I would rather have Dom Perignon (domperignon.com). I find it displeasing that my family isn’t richer, frankly. Or the fact those with money don’t spend more of it frivolously. You cannot take it with you, and I am thirsty. It's not that I don't enjoy Veuve, because I do. It's a fabulous drink. But what about a little bit of 2012 Dommy P? I'd settle for Krug (krug.com). Or possibly a two-bed flat with a garden to drink it in.
To eat, there won’t be smoked salmon. It’s only worth eating if it is sourced sustainably and of the highest quality. The fact people buy it in supermarkets is understandable but less than ideal. I am all for democratisation and firmly believe everyone should be able to enjoy life, but more people should buy smoked trout instead. It’s less damaging to the environment, at least at the moment. I feel less strongly about yorkshire puddings. I don’t care about the rules: whether or not people have batter puddings with chicken and pork makes no odds to me. Having them only with beef is dull. But I do think they are overkill at Christmas and I shall tell you for why: there is enough at Christmas to be getting on with, much of it fatty and rich, and they take up unnecessary time and real estate on the plate (I realise Ed Gamble from Off Menu uses the same argument). The fact is, time is better spent on dishes that are special and only really eaten on December 25: pigs-in-blankets, spiced red cabbage, Brussels sprouts with chestnuts and pancetta. That sort of thing.
Mike Daw
The season is a period of too much boozing, a time when collectively we seem to ignore any NHS-recommended alcohol consumption limits by stating “Well, it’s nearly January”. For me, I’ll be tucking into some Quarter Proof (£25, quarterproof.com) to help take the edge off. David slid a bottle my way a few months back and it’s the ideal booze-reduced alternative to being fully festive. As for food? Well, Christmas Eve will be a big huge bolognese dinner (my mum’s recipe is the best, but inauthentic; otherwise use River Cafe Easy and find a recipe worldofbooks.com) followed by the pub, naturally.
And the big day will be beef Wellington. Ben Lippett has a fairly easy-to-follow recipe, and for anyone doing a Wellington, the meat is key (Ginger Pig, thegingerpig.co.uk and HG Walter, hgwalter.com are both fab, but a quality local butcher should also advise best). Couple that with a robust red wine for the sauce, I’m gambling on Gordon Ramsay’s Intenso Rosso (£10, winedelivered.co.uk) — wish me luck — and stud with cubes of bone marrow for a glossy finish.
The team at Claridge’s were kind enough to send over a gorgeous looking Christmas pudding (£55, shop.claridges.co.uk), the leftovers of which I tend to crumble up and mix with melted vanilla ice cream, re-freeze, and turn into Christmas pudding ice cream. That should go well with a glass of Oatnog (£19, blacklinesdrinks.com) my current festive tipple of choice, with a fairly low abv. Well, it’s nearly January.
